My '48 Custom has a rear main seal leak. I have to leave the flywheel cover off to keep the clutch from getting oiled and ruined. I'd like to fix this and my plan is to drop the pan and rear bearing cap to use a sneaky pete to remove the old rope seal.

Rather than trying to stuff a new rope seal in which will probably be an exercise in futility that will also leak, my plan is to insert a split lip seal if there's one the correct size. My question is, what if any is the recommended split seal for this application and are there spacers involved being lip seals typically aren't as thick as rope seals?

On the topic of installing rear drums, I've mentioned this in the past but will mention it again, applying a thin layer of Milk of Magnesia on the tapered shaft, letting dry, prior to installation will aid removal later without compromising the integrity of the tapered fit. This doesn't address your noise problem but can make life easier.

A follow-up on shock absorbers for the '55: I finally replaced mine with good results.

For rear I used the KYB Excel-G 343042 which has extended length of 24.49", compressed length of 15.35", for a 9.13" stroke. Upper mount is stud (S1) and lower eye ring (E1).
(Alternative rear is the Gabriel 82066 which has extended length of 22.7", compressed length of 13.34", for a 9.36" stroke.)

For front, which is where the '55 is unique, I used the AC Delco Advantage 520-284 which near as I can tell is actually made by and identical to the Gabriel 82026. It has extended length of 13.42", compressed length of 8.56", for a 4.86" stroke. Upper and lower mounts are stud (S1).

Compression damping is relatively light in these shocks, with heavier rebound damping. This gives more responsive action with torsion bar suspension, allowing the suspension to absorb and transmit the shock to the other end of the bar rather than convey it to the corner of the vehicle it was received.

I can attest that the old stud shocks are not easy to remove once rusted as it's difficult to remove the nut while keeping the stud from spinning in very cramped quarters. That's the most difficult part of the job. Installation is easy, but removal of the upper studs all the way around is a bear.

The ride is improved as the old shocks had very little damping left and the wheels would hop following a sharp bump. Although occupants couldn't really feel it happening, you could hear it. They no longer do that and I expect traction and control is thus improved.

Shell Rotella T4 10W-30 should work fine in your application. It's a diesel oil which doesn't have the tight restrictions on the ZDDP of the modern oils sold for gasoline engines. It's a lot less expensive than the specialty oils and will work just as well.

FYI new ignition switch with relay installed and working. Should last "forever". No issues encountered but did remove the glovebox for easier access.

Thanks for all the input.

Well after sending an inquiry with pics to SMS Auto fabrics I received a request to return the new carpet along with the original and they will make a match of the original.

You mean see it without the original one laid over it?

The carpeting material itself is a close match, both color and type, so I don't have issue with that. I understand '55 is different than '56 in that regard. It's the way it is cut and trimmed out that does not match. Considerable modification will be required just to get it into the car, and it still won't be the same.

I'm curious if anyone else has received one of these and what their experience was.

Anyone had experience with SMS Auto Fabrics carpet kits for the '55 400? I received one and though the material is a pretty good match the cut doesn't match. I can understand needing a little trimming but the stitching, trim and cutouts don't match original.

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The NOS ignition switch does not include a cylinder so I just have to figure out the trick to extract the cylinder from the old switch and insert it into the new.