Thanks for all of your comments. You members are the best!

I took the car to a local muffler shop and the bolt on one side of the exhaust/manifold connection had flown off. They were able to align the flange but could not get it tight enough. It looked like the original gasket.

I ordered a new gasket from Olson’s and it came in 2 days. Great service!

I returned to the muffler shop this morning and they were able to install the new exhaust flange gasket without any cutting. The gasket looks like a big o-ring and Olson ‘ said in was like the NOS one.

The car now much quieter and running better, I think.
I’m going to try the vacuum gauge again later.
Thanks, again for your help.

Th is is a photo of the connection from my manifold to the exhaust pipe. I recently had the manifold replaced as it was leaking. It seems that the gasket in between is not tight.

Would this cause the engine to be just noisy or could it cause poor performance. ( It seems to lack power)

Before the manifold was replaced the engine had a tune up with all new parts and ignition wires were replaced.

You members are the best and I thank you in advance
Picture needs to rotated up..

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I just got my car back from having the exhaust manifold replaced because it was leaking. The car is running fairly well but it seems as it could be more peppy. It seems to be laboring at 55 to 60 mph.

I hooked by a vacuum gauge by disconnecting the tube to the wipers. The needle is not steady (wavering) and below normal, which on the gauge reads “late ignition timing”.

Any ideas on what to do.?

Both the car and me are 73 years old, maybe I should be happy with what I have.

You members are always so helpfull, so I humbly thank you in advance for your comments.

Thanks for all of your interest and suggestions..
I talked to Joe at the Carb Exchange today He quoted $204 with shipping. I’ll try Daytona Parts on Monday.

The mechanic said my car needs intake manifold and exhaust manifold gaskets (about $900) and a carb rebuild (about $560 ) Any thoughts? (Misfiring)
He can’t get to it until Sept. Should I send the carb to someone to rebuild?
Who have you used?

Pictures of sample from tank

I recently had my car tuned up and it now running rough. It starts easy but idles rough and loses power on excelleration. Today a mechanic asked if I had taken a sample of the gas in the tank. I had not, so I pumped a quart into a clear container and when it settled, there was rust in the jar.
I think this my problem
What do I do next, clean the tank or get the junk out of the fuel system and carb..
There is a company in the Detroit area that does Gas Tank Renu
You guys are always so helpful. I am thankful in advance

I try to run it around town with the top off the air cleaner for a little while and see what happens

Just to be clear is the vacuum advance tube the one from the carb to the manifold, or the one from the carb to the distributor?

I had my car tuned last week with new parts from Kanter. It starts good and idles smoothly as it did before. This is the problem: when I shift to 2nd gear and accelerate hard, the car bogs, not like it is missing, but like it’s not getting enough gas. It’s okay when I shift to 3rd. The tune up shop said it adjusted the carb and when I took it back, he said I had bad gas and to just continue to drive it. There are 2 fuel filters , one at the carb and one in line near the tank. From what I can tell, they’d are both new replacement filters of what was on the car before. Any ideas on what may be causing this. If I just cruise slowing as I would normally drive, it acts okay