Pictures of sample from tank

I recently had my car tuned up and it now running rough. It starts easy but idles rough and loses power on excelleration. Today a mechanic asked if I had taken a sample of the gas in the tank. I had not, so I pumped a quart into a clear container and when it settled, there was rust in the jar.
I think this my problem
What do I do next, clean the tank or get the junk out of the fuel system and carb..
There is a company in the Detroit area that does Gas Tank Renu
You guys are always so helpful. I am thankful in advance

I try to run it around town with the top off the air cleaner for a little while and see what happens

Just to be clear is the vacuum advance tube the one from the carb to the manifold, or the one from the carb to the distributor?

I had my car tuned last week with new parts from Kanter. It starts good and idles smoothly as it did before. This is the problem: when I shift to 2nd gear and accelerate hard, the car bogs, not like it is missing, but like it’s not getting enough gas. It’s okay when I shift to 3rd. The tune up shop said it adjusted the carb and when I took it back, he said I had bad gas and to just continue to drive it. There are 2 fuel filters , one at the carb and one in line near the tank. From what I can tell, they’d are both new replacement filters of what was on the car before. Any ideas on what may be causing this. If I just cruise slowing as I would normally drive, it acts okay

I just read an article by Hagerty that says that the #1 upgrade for an antique car is to add electronic ignition. The last I remember reading about it reported mixed results in a positive ground vehicle. The drivers were still carrying a set of points in case the EI went out .For a 22-23 rd series car has anyone had good results? What brand did you use and was it difficult to install?
Does it look differs under the hood as opposed to points set up?

'49 Deluxe Eight, 23 series

Thank you Harold, Wes and Jim for your replays. The horn seems to be working for now.

Here is what I did:

At Wes's suggestion, I clipped a ground wire to the lower cup and touched the wire to the center brass disk and the horn worked. This way I knew that the wiring, relay, and horns were working right.

I cleaned the contact plate and everything else I could with solvent and fine steel wool and reassembled.
The horn worked for a while but after a trip through town, it quit again.

I disassembled again and thought that the brass disk was too loose and moving so it didn't make contact. I found a thin black vinyl hose washer in my repair bin that was just the same size as the insulting washer behind the brass disk. I cut a slit in it so it would go over the wire. I put a small amount of craft glue on it to hold it in place
and put it behind the insulting washer to bring the brass disk closer to the contact plate. Maybe the spring is a little weak?

I reassembled again and waited for the glue to dry and it seems to be working fine. We will see if this is the permanent solution.

Thanks' again, guys!

other picture

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My horn is not working, it was working intermittently for awhile.

I have replaced the relay with a new one from NAPA and replaced some frayed wire from the end of the steering column to switch terminal on the relay.

I hooked up a switch under the hood to the two terminals on the relay (B & S, in the wiring diagram) and a ground and it worked. I have removed the horn rim.
There is the spring and a copper looking disc that is attached to the wire that goes down the steering column

Now, how does it make contact to make the horn blow?

I have couple of pictures but I have forgotten how to resize them.

What is there something to replace, clean or adjust?
I have to have a way to signal people when I get a thumbs up! LOL

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