I was contacted by a board member, who had a friend in need of a manifold (And Carbs + linkage for that matter).

A couple of Emails, a couple of calls, and a deal was cut.

Thanks to those that helped ID it positively!

FYI, the one in the pics I posted has been sold, and shipped.

OK, Electrolysis:

Parts needed;

Plastic tank
Iron rods, screen, or other sacrificial iron (DON'T use SS!)
Spa or swimming pool PH + (Not acid)
Battery charger (Really big parts may require a bigger power source. I've read where a DC welder was used, but that was for an entire frame)


The Plastic reservoir needs to hold both the parts AND the sacrificial iron, (This is the Anode)

Small parts may only need a 5 gal bucket, larger parts perhaps a Rubbermaid tub, very large parts a plastic 55 gal drum, full frames - make a shallow 'pool" using plastic sheet, with something to support the sides, (Think oversized water bed frame) and a grid of rebar.

You want the anode to have mostly line of site to the part to be de-rusted. Scrap steel/iron, rebar... I'm about to redo my anode setup using 2x4 heavy wire screen (No plating here!)

Make a way to support the part to be de-rusted, so it does not contact the anode grid. This could be steel support wire or bricks on the bottom to support the part.
Fill with water and add maybe ? cup of the spa chemical to a couple or three gallons of water. (This is not particularly a fussy ratio)

Connect the battery charger, + Positive clip to the Anode, and the - Negative to the part to be de-rusted. (Backwards is a disaster!) - Be SURE to keep the charger clips out of the water. (Plan for this when you set it up!)

Turn the charger on. If you have a high and low setting, start with low. If that does not get the bubbles going, set it to high. The Bubbles are your indicator it's working (It may take a few or ten minutes). If is still doesn't work, make sure you have continuity to your part and anode. (Paint is a good insulator, so is heavy rust...)

This will usually strip paint, along with the rust. If the process slows or stops, shut down and pull the anode out, and scrub off the rusty gunk, and reassemble.

Best of all this is a non toxic process with one exception.

DO NOT DO THIS IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE AND DO NOT DO IT NEAR A COMBUSTION SOURCE. - THOSE BUBBLES? HYDROGEN GAS... REMEMBER THE ZEPPELIN FIRE? HYDROGEN GAS...

Also note that this is a SLOW process, and will ordinarily leave a black residue that will usually scrub off with a stiff nylon scrub brush.

The solution will last indefinitely, but will evaporate. Just add plain water, the spa chemical does not evaporate. If you think you are done with the solution you can dump it almost anywhere.

Use this for iron and steel parts only!

OK, I'm asking $800 including shipping.

That last one on Eprey went for $618, plus shipping, was heavily rusted and needed the carb mounting surfaces resurfaced at least, and had heavy corrosion in the port runners. This one is relatively clear of rust, the runners are more rust free than rusty, and that is faint/light. This one clearly was not stored outside in the rain.

If it does not sell very soon, I will strip it down, using my Electrolysis tank, which will strip off the gold paint someone saw fit to spray it down with, as well as any rust it does have, and make it as near new as you can get a fifty year old piece of CI. (I don't know what I was thinking when I mentioned bead blasting, I stopped doing that years ago. Habit and not using the E tank for a few years I guess)

Thanks for the adived on stripping.

I have positivly ID'ed the manifold. It is for a 55 Caribbean 352 V8, or the 1956 374 V8. Cuurent paint is clearly not original.

I removed the 3 studs it had and all the threaded carb holes have good threads and the threads have been chased.

I attached a pic.

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Hello, I found this site looking for information on a 2x4 CI intake I have acquired.

Its casting # matches the # for a 1955 Packard 352?

#440856

Firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Cyl numbers - odd on one side, even on the other, (Neither means much, it's a common setup)

I was at first thinking this was for a Chrysler, but nothing looks close.

Based on the web info, I'm becoming reasonably certain this is for the Packard listed above.

I picked this up to resell, so if anyone is interested, please let me know. ( I hope this is not against forum rules)

I'm undecided if I should have this bead blasted, and if so what would be the proper paint? Currently it's got gold paint on it. (Original?)

Ps: I read these are rare, and no, I'm not scamming anyone; I can provide pics tomorrow, (I'll be posting it locally to see what interest there is)