Hi
I’d shaved the 288 head I put on the 327 ( compression jump) , switched back to the 327 head after blowing a head gasket .
The 327!was rebuilt , hopefully the guys decked the block but I later figured out the guys weren’t good and who knows ? The engine block was bored to .06 . I had overheats after this
I learned that in the day no one bored this far in the flathead 6’s and 8’s . I compensated for this with an aluminum radiator , replaced the water distribution tube ( painful) ,water pump , thermostat, hoses ,and put in a flex fan ,and shroud , and that worked nicely . I encountered stripped head bolt holes and have fixed the bad ones with time cert ‘s and it takes torque evenly .
Unfortunately the magnificent old packard has had mostly down time
She’s currently up at an Austin mechanic who was recommended by some of my favorite Hudson whack-o’s, who professed knowledge and love of flatheads
I’ve learned lots through the thoughts and musings of the packard forum members over the years since my packard bug infection

I have a 327 inline that’s in a 52 200 touring sedan . It’s engine was rebuilt . Since the rebuild by a mechanic who perhaps didn’t do it right , I’ve had problems blowing head gaskets repeatedly . This last time I started thinking it was because of a stuck or sticky valve . Sure enough “ guided” by this concern the mechanic found a heavily worn guide # 5 exhaust valve from the back , and a bent valve .
Great mystery problem solved !
But can’t get the guide out
He said it’s stuck said could only get it to move 1/4”
Is that common ? Is that a engine killer ?any extraction wisdom?

Ps I think I used a fan spacer also at Napa !

Hi I couldn't figure out how to answer a private message
On the site but
Champion is owned by a guy named Jeff
They have a website and the retail part is leadfoot racing
Find on google I told him I pass along the packard saga I had: so I'm Steve
You'll need to know the width height and position of the pipes i.e. Upper and lower and where they are in relation to passenger/ driver
There's a universal mounting kit from speedway it was easy Peazy cuz there's lots of room
My original rebuilt radiators out so if you need the measurement let me know
The stock hoses won't fit (too big) but Napa sells a little rubber thing (collar) that slips in the end of the hose
Kanter will selll you a new set of hoses
I got my fax fan at pep boys just bring the old one with yo match it up
I made a franken-shroud out of a plastic one and a rivet gun
Shrouds were unheard of on the days of 450 rpm idle but I really wanted to cool the thing off
Ps you can get the trans cooler in the radiator so if your an ultranationalist guy and want to eliminate the packard funny one in the cool hose
You'll need a couple 1/4 npt to hose barb fittings ( Napa) and some rubber hose ; double clamp!
Very gratifying result !

Hi I had overheat problems
I redid the radiator replaced the water pump, thermostat ,hoses ,hot water distribution tube ,turned out in the end it was because the block was over bored (.6) generating too much heat ,I got a universal champion aluminum radiator used a flex fan and made a Frankenstein shroud
Instant success

Several trips to the garage ,the left rear axel keeps migrating outward ,,it'll scrape against the brake drum
First time we thought it was rubbing on the drum so relieved the drum edge with a die grinder and added axel shims but this didn't work
Then the axel actually migrated out sideways luckally the fender skirt held it in ,I st that point replaced the brearings and seals ,noticed the outer end of the axel was chewed up,
Replaced with good used axel , noted that there is a keyway and a key in the axel which requires adjustment on assembly .
Opon reassembly still doing the scraping noise
I checked and there's plenty of clearance between the wheel and fenders
The noise is best heard at very slow speeds with the window open and driving near a wall which reflects the noise
Could this be in the differential?
The mechanic isn't old enough to know what the deal is , and I'm too ignorant he thinks he didn't adjust the keyway holding in the axel right
Any advice?

Hi nice steering wheel shot!
I'm in the midst of trying to get a different project 's horn working and it looks very similar with a horn ring,in a 50 desoto ( Chrysler )
There's no pics I can find ,
So the point is to supply ground by pressing on the horn ring
Many you can help me the wire comes up through the colomb
The wheel is held on by a nut and there's a cup that's called a ground cup
The wire is held in place by a button on the end but the thing behind it ,is that an insulator ? Or does the wire have continuity with ground cup?
The spring sits in the cup so it's " hot"
Now it gets tricky
There's a spring retainer ring ,so it's hot
It bolts on to the 3 legged ring but I see insulators noted so I guess this isn't " hot" and it supports the hon ring ,looks like the screws go through the 3leg ring without touching (grounding) it to connect to the horn ring
so where's the circuit made when the ring presses?

Aren't those holly units actually gas spray units you put on the intake ? They don't actually squirt mixture into the cylinders do they?

So new axel and bearings with retainers ,still makes the same scraping noise ,particularly when driving slowly ,sounds terrible ,mechanic said brakes back plate rubbing on drums and hit it with die grinder ,still scraping metal on metal ,mechanic wondered if the hub cap or beauty ring causing the noise
On inspection the axel that came out had the bearing spinning on he axel
I wondered if the noise is the differential
He noted a rumble noise that he said was an imbalance drive shaft ( it's not stock)
My Packard has a Chrysler 518.trans and I shortened the drive shaft but it was supposed to have been balanced
When I get this issue finished ,it's the last issue before a perfect running Packard,!

Thank you!,,