Sounds like you've removed head torque as an issue. I was having overheating problems last fall. Turned out to be a bad head gasket that was allowing blow by between several cylinders. I'm not sure if a compression check would have identified this.

Just a thought, have you re-torqued the head since it was replaced?

I believe that it's an aftermarket filter. It was added at some point by the original owner. It seems to work well there, with the exception that it makes torquing the head somewhat inconvenient.

That's a bypass oil filter.

OK, wanted to say thanks for the help. The engine is back together and running beautifully. Probably the best it has run since I owned the car. Had it out on two longer trips and boy, she drives very smoothly at 65-70 mph with some power to spare. I'd also been battling overheating issues and these seem to have disappeared as well.

Best Regards,

Tom

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OK, the pistons are clearing the block between 0.010" to 0.020". I'm planning to install the head today and plan to hand crank it a couple of times to verify that nothing is hitting. There weren't any previous issues with pinging, however with the head now shaved, I will have to keep an ear out.

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OK, Head is back from the shop. In total they had to remove 0.014" to get it flat. I did some preliminary testing and the valve clearance will be OK.

Question though, the pistons, at top dead center, clear the block by a small amount. Is this OK? I found this out during valve clearance testing as the head would slightly rock when placed on the block and the crank rotated (without head gasket). It appears that the gasket thickness will keep everything from touching when assembled, however, is this normal?

Thanks!

Tom in KC

That's an idea if needed. I plan to measure the existing clearances first. As the head shop indicates it'll only need a shave of 0.010" to make flat. It hopefully has this room.

Thanks,

Tom

Hi Folks,

Many thanks for all the great info. Couple of updates:

1. The head came back from the shop. It's not too bad with the worst warp at 0.007". It does have some gasket etching as well. See picture. The shop recommends taking off about 0.010" to flatten everything out. Before they do this, I plan to do the modeling clay trick (torque the head down on the old gasket with some modeling clay over the valves, turn the engine over x4, remove head & measure free clearance above the valves). Once valve to head clearances are known I'll talk to the shop about going forward (or not) with milling.

2. Crack penetrating dye kit is on order and I'll test the block once it arrives. Hopefully no issues.

3. After reviewing some of the posts and speaking with the head shop, I decided to go the paint route for the engine head. Have some high temp engine primer and engine gray on order.

4. At this point I plan to go with the existing studs. With the exception of the one low one they don't seem to be too bad and the threads cleaned up nicely. My worry is that the replacement process (risk of breaking a stud) may be worse than just going with what's there.

Again, thanks for all of the help, suggestions and advice.

Best Regards,

Tom

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OK,thanks, have a dye kit on order. Will inspect carefully.

Tom