Been there, done that.
I ended up getting a block of brass and drilling it to slide over the shaft and tapping for a set-screw to hold it on. Now I can take it on/off and even make adjustments to the angle at-will.
-Dave

Hi All,

Have a problem that has been creeping in and getting bigger since mid-to-late-summer. It started with a mild "Shudder" (For lack of a better word) on acceleration at lower speeds with the transmission in H. The problem has been consistently getting worse each time I take her out. I took the car for about a 120 mile trip about a month ago and on the way back the shuddering got really bad whenever I tried to accelerate and decelerate. I also started to get a squeak from the rear end and differential fluid is leaking from both back wheels (On the inner side). I hadn't started the car for about a month, so went for a quick trip around the block today and another new symptom arose. The was a chirp that appeared to be coming from the ultramatic. (Stuck my head out of the window and definitely was coming from the front.) The chirp was related to wheel speed. and only happened when going 5-10 mph. and only happened when the shuddering was present.

I'm guessing that the rear bearings are shot and the Universal joint may need attention, but the chirping transmission really has me puzzled.

This one is a bit over my level and I called the local shop, but they said they have to get at least on car out before they had room for me an I should call back in a week. Until then just want to see what you guys think.

I've recently seen grille badges for sale on the net that say they are for a '51. is the 300 supposed to have a badge on the chrome? Mine doesn't.

My engine started loping again.
I pulled the spark plug wires 1-by-1 to see If I'm getting spark. Each plug dropped the idle rpm except #4 acted opposite of what I expected. When I pulled the wire to #4 , engine idle increased. What is that a symptom of?

Ok, I have answered my own original question.
I noticed the fast idle arm had a patent # on it and I looked it up. Here is the link:

United States Patent # 2402361

This is the Part that is not working on mine:

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Yes, spring is correct.

Could someone take a pic with the green piece removed?

I want to make sure that I'm not missing a tab or something off the cam that is behind it.

I think I may have found the problem.

On the inner tab, is it supposed to have a groove like this?
I suspect it's not making contact with the cam from being worn.

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Well, I took the carb off again and made the fast idle adjustment as prescribed then the unloader adjustment.

Now the engine starts into fast idle but will never slow to curb idle. The set-screw never touches.

I've tried giving it gas, a pedal tap, gunning the engine, but it won't slow down.

I guess what I am missing is what exactly is the mechanical difference between fast idle engaged and disengaged.

When the choke spring relaxes, the tab lets the unloader cam fall down somewhat. But what gets the unloader cam out of the way of the fast idle linkage to allow it to travel up to curb idle? Maybe I'm not seeing the forest for the trees.

Ok, that makes sense.

What then, is the mechanism that cancels fast Idle and then makes it go to curb idle. I assume the tab on the green green piece has to be kicked out of position somehow to allow the blue piece to then travel up to achieve curb idle.