Seems Amazon has sets of Grade 8 thick washers also.

From experience I can add that the light switch circuit breaker can be R&R’d with the switch installed. By the way, the technical data that I’ve come across on this type of breaker suggests a typical circuit breaker has about a fifty-cycle life if repeatedly overloaded. The information didn’t add was the electrical state of the breaker after failure . . . I suspect the circuit is opened. A quick check could be made with a test light. The breaker should have power on both poles, if however, power appears on only one pole the breaker has failed, which would appear very much like a switch failure.

PS. I bet the aforementioned cycle life is voltage dependent . . . lower is better.

dp

I must admit I’ve assumed the shape is elliptical, but once the dimensions are determined I will supply a table of X,Y coordinates for the profile of one quadrant based on aa ¼ inch grid . . . in that way a knife guide template could be made locally.
dp

Tristar500

See
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=256349&

If not equipped with a by-pass loop, vane pumps should be powered at all times . . . quite acceptable if the mechanical pump is removed.

Impulse/solenoid type pumps may be used to prime/clear vapor lock with a mechanical pump installed. Otherwise, they may be unpowered during normal engine operation . . . no by-pass loop required.

dp

The 'ropes' in my '54 are about 32"long and approximately 1 1/2" diameter. The material appears to be something like crepe paper, with an over braid of lacing cord. One end is wound with a string, but I think that was adding later to stop the fraying. See photos

dp

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Bill B

I re-read your question and have concluded you might have a short key. There’s nothing wrong with that if the shorter length avoids the curved surface in the axle produced by the key cutter. I would test fit the key as far inward (toward the differential) as it can go, but not too far to have an interference fit with the curved surface. Then measure the distance from the key to the shoulder on the axle near the thread. Once you re-assemble the drum/hub you have an appreciation on what the maximum gap might be between the hub and the end of the key.

dp

Bill B

IIRC the key is dressed, or may be dressed to have a curved surface on one side of one end. If your key has such a feature that faces towards inward meaning toward center line of the axle shaft and the toward the differential.

The hub has key way slot that is broached such that the full length is rectangular (constant geometry). The axle was machined with a key cutter, and has a rectangular entry near the axle nut thread. However as the cutter approaches the bearing area the procession of the cutter advancement is paused. This area of the keyway slot will have a circular surface of the same diameter as the cutter.

Take a look at your axle and determine:
1.) Does the axle have such keyway cutter geometry?
2.) Does the key have a ground end that matches the axle geometry?

If you answer ‘yes’ to both questions then of the eight ways the key could be installed only one is correct!

If you don’t have a key with the ground curved surface then you will be required to make one or use a shorter key. The worst thing you can do is attempt to force a square key into the curved portion of the slot, so if you are using a square key make sure the end at the axle nut tread seats properly, and the total length does not allow interference at the radius formed by the cutter. I believe in either case, the key is held captive by the cutter curved surface, and the washer at the nut. If a shorter key is used the captive characteristic is not defeated. Remember if the key is a bit outboard the torque on the rear axle nut will push the key flush to the outboard surface of the hub. If you use a shorter key you might consider putting a slight chamfer on the surface that may contact the curved feature.

I suspect a ‘best practice’ would be install the key and hub and put about 1/2 of the required torque, and then remove the nut and washer and inspect. The key should not be proud to the hub.

dp

53 Cavalier

My experience with Carter carburetors is if there is a drilled, or drilled and tapped, hole that intersects a shaft, then that hole is the preferred location to apply shaft lubrication/oil. For an equivalent shaft the WDO dust cover has oiling instructions cast into the cover. The holes in the WDO do not have felt inserts, so I would not expect to see them in a WCFB. I other worlds lubricating the carburetor throttle shaft is on the 500 mile maintenance schedule.

Bye the way, and just as a reminder, the float level for Daytona float valve equipped carburetors is adjusted by adding/subtracting gaskets between the valve body and the carburetor casting. The tang on the float should touch the center of the Daytona valve.

dp

Hi Kevin
Dorman makes those clips. You may however have to buy an assortment to get the one you need.
DP

HPH

That’s an excellent question!

I have an idea/theory that would never be obvious if we are only looking at the cut-away drawings in the shop manual.

First, other what part spins and what part is standing still, that design is similar to a modern front wheel spindle/hub design, which doesn’t use a sleeve. Second is the historic Brand X pinion bearing preload design that equally doesn’t use a sleeve. A common element between these two designs is a means to lock/safety the adjusting nut, which may otherwise be tightened to a torque that would be far too low to ensure non-loosening during operation.

A modern front wheel bearing set is torqued to some low level intended to remove all looseness and apply some preload to the bearing set. Then the adjusting nut is ‘backed-off’ so many wrench flats and a cotter pin installed. The original VW beetle used a design that used a pinch bolt in lieu of a cotter pin. In the Brand X pinion there are two nuts separated with a tab washer. The first nut is used to adjust the bearing preload, and once that is achieved the second nut is used as a jam nut. The tab washer is ‘tabbed’ to hold both nuts relative to the shaft.

I see the crush sleeve as a means to force the torque on the pinion nut high enough to be less susceptible to loosening. I still look at that design as driven by manufacturing simplicity.

dp