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Board index » All Posts (vicsprize)




Re: Distributor removal 115C
#1
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

mypackard
Thanks for the info on the distributor, the picture was especially helpful. The problem turned out to be when I had the engine rebuilt whoever put the didtrubutor in must have tapped or driven it in. I had to give the distributor a good hard tug and it partially came out. I ended up pulling the oil pan and found that the small cross bar that fits into the slot at the end of the distributor shaft was stuck in the shaft. I was not able to work it loose but was able to reinsert the distributor and get the sir clip hooked back onto the shaft that has the drive gear on it. Needles to say I was pretty ticked off about the hole deal and may go back to the rebuilder in the fall and have them make it right.
If you ever need to pull the oil pan on a 115C turn the wheels all the way to the right and bring # 3 cylinder up to TDC. Otherwise the counter weight and rod journals one #1 do not give you enough clearance to slid the pan out.

Posted on: 2014/6/16 17:23
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Distributor removal 115C
#2
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

mypackard
It appears I have a small oil leak where the distributor enters the block on my 1937 six cylinder and I believe its probably the o ring needs replacemnet. I have brought the engine to TDC on the flywheel and rotor pointing to number one, have removed the bolts on the distributor hold down plate and loosened the distributor clamp. The distributor will only come out about 1/4 to 3/8 inch and then feels like a metal to metal contact and will not come out any further. Is there someting else that has to be aligned to remove the distributor?

Posted on: 2014/6/13 17:09
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Remove ignition coil
#3
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

mypackard
How is the ignition coil on the 115c w packard 6 removed?
This type of coil only has one wire from coil to distibutor, an armored cable from the ignition switch enters the rear of the coil. Does the coil screw off and what direction or does it pull off? I have a wiring diagram but no picture of a coil by itself.
Thanks Jim

Posted on: 2014/5/12 13:29
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Re: 115C door handles
#4
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

mypackard
I reemoved the inside right door panel and did not find any screw in the rear of the shaft. I took off the two screws that hold the door handle on the outside and the handle and shaft came right out. I think I may have a cobbled up handle setup as the locksmiths can't pick the lock and the one key that was made from a code on the shaft does not work either. The screw at the back makes sense and I have seen other handles that have them. Thanks again.

Posted on: 2014/2/28 13:13
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115C door handles
#5
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

mypackard
I have to remove the passanger door handle on my 115C and I do not want to tear up the uphostery. Besides the screws on the outside of the door how are the door handles secured to the doors? There must be a screw or bolt somewhere.
Thanks Jim

Posted on: 2014/2/1 23:01
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115C door lock
#6
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

mypackard
I have a 115c and no key to work the door lock. We are in a small town and the local locksmiths can't pick the lock on the door so I need to hand fit a key. I have a replacement cylinder but do not know if the spacings and cut depths are the same as the lock on the door. The replacement cylinder can with a B1 key.
As close as I can figure the measurement frm the root or shoulder to the first cut is around .180, spacings are .120 and cut depths are .020. Does anyone know if these are correct?
Thanks,
Jim

Posted on: 2014/1/25 14:15
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Re: Front wheel bearings
#7
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

mypackard
Yes I do have a 1937 115C which I forgot to mention. Thanks to all for the responses. I think I will go with the 20 pds torque and then back off one hole on the washer. If the hubs feel to warm I willl try a different method of 20 pds, back off and retorque to 4 pds. If anyone comes across any more methods I would appreciate it.
Thanks again

Posted on: 2012/8/26 12:52
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Front wheel bearings
#8
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

mypackard
I have searched through all my manuals and the Pachard Service index and no where can I find the procedure for setting the front wheel bearings after packing.
What is the first torque setting and then the back off and resetting?

Posted on: 2012/8/25 20:06
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Re: Leaking oil
#9
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

mypackard
the oil leak is minor but makes a mess. I will soak the oil cap in kerosene or such to see if that helps. Thanks

Posted on: 2012/7/8 16:08
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Leaking oil
#10
Not too shy to talk
Not too shy to talk

mypackard
I have a 1937 115. It leaks oil out of the fuel pump. I just had the engine completely rebuild (3 7/16 pistons .030 over). The fuel pump fills with oil between the two diaphams and then leaks out oil on to the frame and splash pan. This is the same problem I had before the engine was rebuilt. I had sent the fuel pump off for repair and they found nothing wrong with it and replaced the diaphams. Should I be looking for a drain hole somewhere or a deflector that may be missing. I asked to be present went the engine was rebuilt but was not allowed for liability purposes therefore I do not know what things look like in that area. Any ideas?

Posted on: 2012/7/8 15:30
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