I don't know the details on this particular electronic ignition, but I've seen several designs that specifically didn't want you to short the short the ign coil primary to ground- doing so would damage the module (esp. on positive gnd designs). Since I believe that's how the OD relay limits engine torque for the kickdown shift, I'd imagine the new relay momentarily interrupts ign power instead.

Getting back to the original thread, I would perform a running compression test on this engine. Cranking compression test measures the result of gross cylinder sealing & cam timing. A running test compares each cylinders' ability to "breath" at idle.

Run the engine until it reaches operating temp & shut down. Screw compression gauge into a plug hole & ground that cyl plug wire. Start & idle the eng- release gauge press then watch it build. Do this several times & note the highest reading & how long it takes to build.

Repeat this procedure on all cylinders. You want to compare all cyl to each other. Since eng is compressing fuel/air mixture at 18" of [vacuum] or so, your reading is going to be about 1/3 of your cranking result. This test helps to find intermittant exhaust valve problems. A worn guide or rusty/carboned up valve stem will usually deal fine at cranking speed, but act up when moving faster & hot.

OK, that explains the "mystery" reverse switch on my '41 - 180 (R9), that doesn't have backup lamps. Can you tell me where the retrofit wiring cut into the OD control circuit?

In addition to everything engine related, I'd strongly recommend checking over the brakes- & replacing all hydraulic parts. If by some miracle the master & wheel cylinders survived, I wouldn't bet my life that they would continue to work when really needed.

That behavior was a common design on many cars thru the 60's. I guess that "every amp is precious" when you have a generator that puts out 30A or so.

A points type regulator DOES need some time to warm up, but it only should affect the voltage set point by a few tenths of a volt. (ie. such as 7.0V cold, 7.3V hot on a 6V system).The generator should charge some whenever the eng is running.

If anything, a cold generator usually can produce a few more amps of current than a hot unit (resistance increases/ amperage decreases as the unit heats up)

I've seen new spider gears that had similar "scratches" on them. It's really just sloppy (non-critical) machining. The ring & pinion are high precision gears, but as stated the side & spider gears turn much slower & so they weren't made "to look as pretty". Don't worry about it.

On my '41 180 I disconnected the drag link from the pitman arm & took out a couple shifter links before I could get that *%#@ pan off. ( This was with the car jacked up & supported on jackstands. )

I'd imagine that alot of the dust exposure from servicing brakes is less nasty than handling asbestos pipe insulation day in - day out. Another factor is that most mechanics are individuals working in small private shops. That's different "press" & representation compared to say, a large group of unionized factory workers in a specific industry.
You'll hear more about 400 workers filing a class action lawsuit over asbestos health problems vs. ol' Bob the retired mechanic who has "taken ill".

When I stop & think about riveted vs bonded, I can't think of too many "old" cars that had bonded linings - maybe VW beetles & some other imports. I'd always considered bonding to be a "recent" technology.

What did it set you back?