Friends,

The Executive has developed another anomaly. The Generator/Charge light glows steady after 5-10 mi driving when the engine gets warmed up, no matter what speed I am at or how hard the generator (should) be turning. It has left me with one dead battery, easily recharged. When it is cold, it is fine (red at idle, out as soon as you hit the gas).
I note that the problem appears to be affected during the warm-up process by shifting of gears and/or major road bumps; the light may flicker all the way on or off.
I find no bare wires in inspection of the primary ignition circuit; the coil seems hot to me, but it may just be engine heat. Belt tensions are normal; when cold the car starts on the button every time, with no pumping the accelerator. Could a bad coil cause full battery discharge on the road? Any and all relevant commentary appreciated.

Thanks,

JER

Ross,

Where are you? Check for a PM from me. Need the driveshaft. Thanks, JER

Guys,

The mystery with my U-joint thickens. My mechanic informs me it is a "2 wing, 2 round" U joint. The bearing cups/caps are 1" diameter. The replacement I ordered from Max Merritt is 1 1/16". Kanter says it is supposed to be 1 1/16" for an Exec, or 1 1/8" for a Senior car. My mechanic thinks a new yoke may have previously been welded in. Any idea what ever ran a "2 wing 2 round joint with 1" cups?

Thanks,

John Robinson

Howard,

You hit on something. It's a mix. On the shifter, you can feel it distinctly click and "bite" on park, neutral, low, and reverse. Where I get in trouble is between drive and high. It's hard to feel one from the other. But I think there is even more of just an indicator issue- "Neutral" takes up 1/2 of the quadrant and bounces itself around a little. Park will do the same, on occasion. Therefore, I "feel" the gears by the distinct bumps on each gear (the detents) rather than paying a lot of indication to the shifter. This is only really a practical problem on drive and high.

As to driveshaft- I am glad to hear that a yoke on the propshaft can be redone/rebuilt. Anyone ever do this? Anyone use the Kanter parts before?

Thanks again, Howard.

John

Owen,

You were quite right on the latter problem. The rubber hose underneath the pump was loose, causing a leak and preventing a build up of any decent boost. On to the next problem....

Thanks again for your help.

Friends,

I now know the source of the intermittent knocking emanating from my car. On a run down a country road today, at 45 mph, I got a "crunch", then the sound of the driveshaft hitting pavement. Fortunately, I got the car out of gear, so it looks like no harm to the tranny. Inspection shows that a cup is broken off the differential u-joint flange, and off of the prop shaft rear u joint flange.

Questions:

1. Kanter has the differential flange, but does anyone know if the propshaft rear flange is detachable or cast/forged on? 2. Secondly, does Kanter carry a rear flange if it is detachable. 3. If it is not detachable, has anyone heard of a propshaft/driveshaft/machine shop being able to weld a substitute on? All thoughts appreciated.

Secondly, this triggers issues about my ultramatic. I have a sloppy shifter. While you can "feel" the gears through the shifter, the indicator is always all over the place. Anyone rebuilt these? Kanter says I should post here because they don't have the bits for them anymore.

Thanks,

John Robinson

Gang,

This is my first post. I just bought the 56 Executive known as the Bumblebee from my friend Joe Mazzuchelli in New Hampshire. I got the car on Saturday, and it settled in great. I did the usual post-ship checks for oil, transmission fluid, spark, light, fuses, etc., and the car also started on the button every time, without hesitation.
Yesterday, after a 1/2 hour cruise, I went to an auto parts store to get a fan belt, some transmission fluid, and backup fuses. When I came out, the Packard would turn over, but wouldn't start. A burst of starter fluid would make it run, but as soon as it was gone, the car would die.

I checked the fuel bowl- it is only 1/4 or so full. Also, when I went back to my garage on Sunday after the car broke down, I found an oil/gas mix spot on the drive similar to what you would get in a 2-cycle lawnmower, presumably from under the Packard. Also, when the tow man came and put the car on a flatbed hauler, gasoline ran out from under the front of the car.

My great mechanic Oral Fipps will get to the car mid-week, but I was wondering if anyone had any educated guesses based on the aforementioned issues. Joe put on a new NAPA fuel pump not too long ago. So, bad pump off the shelf, or other blockage in the line? Is what I described (oil/gas mix and gas leak from under car) a fuel pump failure issue?)