Cut out as presented

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Hello Chaps

I've added a 1934 Limousine to my garage this week. I came with a refurbished cut out which had not yet been fitted back in place so that's my first job.

The image shows how the generator was presented to me.

The cutout has large connections for the battery and generator - these seem fairly obvious but h to connect the two smaller cables that come form the generator. How to know which is which?

any help would be appreciated as the diagrams dont mean much to me

Thanks

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The speedo is held in with two bolts so it's quite simple to remove once you have access to it
My suggested cautions are :

1. It's heavy. When you are lying on your back underneath it take care not to drop it on your face !! I speak from experience

2. The cast alloy frame that holds the mileometer rollers is very fragile and will break if you are rough with it. There's a company in Australia that makes replacements should this be necessary.

3. Don't over tighten the bolts when you put it back in. They come very close to the back of the metal dash board and will dint it quite easily

Good luck

Sadly that one listed on ebay won't ship to me in the UK.

Anyone know of a supplier who would?

Thank you both

I cant see a maker's name on the lock but its exactly the one I need

Hello chaps,

One of the springs in a rear door latch has broken.

Its a flat spiral type that returns the latch after opening.

I can get a replacement made but wondered if they are common to other years in this period and whether there is a supplier over in the States.

So, in terms of a new battery, it seems that the traditional rubber type ones don't quote the cold Cranking Amperage (CCA) - at least here in olde England.

My options seem to be this one

http://www.alpha-batteries.co.uk/6v-classic-car-batteries/6v-511-ultra-plus-classic-car-battery/

or this ugly looking Optima one

http://www.optimabatteries.co.uk/en/red-top/14-optimar-redtop-s-21-6volt.html

The Ultra Plus type is 112 Ah and 800 CCA
The optima is only 55Ah but 825 CCA

I guess the amp-hours is not so important as there is nothing on the car to use it - radio, heater, electric windows etc.

Which would you go for?

This is the solenoid I use

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/670/category/99

I don't have the luxury of a test meter that could measure the cranking current.

The problem manifested itself in the solenoid "chattering" which indicated that, when starting, the voltage dropped so much that the solenoid switched off, then on again around 10 times a second.

Because the solenoid is an addition (the original wiring was straight through the foot-operated switch) I changed the solenoid for a spare one.

Then I changed the main cable to the starter as the previous owner had lashed up two smaller cables in parallel.

I was fooled because the charger indicated good charging current and 6.4v full charge. After a while I noticed that the pump and lights wouldn't work either. I suspected my own wiring work but only realised that the battery had died in front of my eyes when I took the starter out to bench test it (resistance measures as per the spec). Shorting the battery terminals produced absolutely nothing.

I'd not suspected the battery but, time flies as we know, and I realised that its 5 years old.

The charging is ok because I'd previously converted the dynamo to 2 brush and installed a hidden electronic regulator. This was mainly because when I first bought the car, the charging relay was missing.

Hello chaps

Can I ask how often you have to replace your 6v starter battery?

I've been having problems with starting on my 1930 745 and worked my way through starter motor, solenoid etc but determined that the battery is dead. It reads 6.4v and seems to charge ok but wont provide any current at all.

I suspect that the big current draw on the starter doesn't do it any good.

It's 5 years old and just wondered whether you chaps have to replace yours every so often.