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I did it without removing the K-member, after removing the front clip. I did it without help also, so Ozstatman is more than correct!

OK and thanks for the outline. I think I have a) and b) covered (but I really like the wad of paper trick! And I will try it just to see how it works for me.)
Pulling the distributor leads to the question of "what if...?"... and what I have read indicates that I must correct any misalignment by removing the oil pump and turning a notch or two (?). I must say that having removed the front clip for the engine rebuild I am less than enthusiastic about doing it again. This car was a joy to drive until last fall when it started missing when going up a hill, and it has been downhill since because of many problems including corroded wire connections.

I may not have described things well: the timing strobe now flashes when the timing marks are approaching the pointer. When it ran well, the light flashed when the 7 degree mark was at the pointer. Rotating the distributor clockwise causes the timing marks to move towards the correct position, but the engine gets rougher.
The issue of vacuum leaks at the intake manifold is a challenge! I would think that roughness would be present, but there would be no effect on actual timing(?) I'll have to think of a way to test that. I'll check the (new) points just to be sure they are firmly fixed in position. The pointer is in the same position now as in the past when things ran as expected.
HH56 has confirmed my fears about the way to approach the timing chain, so I'll operate on his and Ross' assumption that a jump is unlikely.

Problem:'41 120 runs roughly. Timing is off by light: at max counterclockwise rotation of distributor, #1 fires about 7-10 degrees after TDC; clockwise rotation will stop the engine. I tried moving the wires in the distributor cap ahead, and behind by one hole with no benefit.
Background: car ran and timed well for almost 2 K miles after engine rebuild with new timing chain. Then things got progressively worse. I had recent problems with starting, resolved by cleaning all electrical connections. I have reviewed the related portion of the thread" HA's 52 200 Grey Ghost" (Project Blogs) from a year ago.
Questions: 1. any simple solutions or checks to be made or what have I missed? 2. Should I be looking at the oil pump position? 3. While I have a hard time accepting that the timing chain "jumped" is there any way to check this? 4. Does the front clip need to be removed to access the timing chain? 5. Why/ how could a mispositioned anything happen when it ran so well for a while?

FOLLOW-UP:
Thanks for suggestions.
I pulled every wire I could find to isolate the R9 Overdrive from the car's electrics: still no start.
All voltages measure as expected.
I have continued to worry about the float, but I must note that that the carburetor has been evaluated by 2 local guys who are "in the business" and then the whole carb was "rebuilt/restored" by a group who restores carburetors for a living and was recommended by a Packard supplier. Unless the Packard has some unique problems, I don't know how to proceed with the float issue.
So, is there any problem unique to Packard carburetors of that era that might be missed by knowledgeable people?

Thanks.
I believe I have covered all areas EXCEPT the R9 OD issue.
That area is of particular importance because I have had intermittent problems with OD engagement and kick-out.
I will address that issue as soon as I am certain that I can exclude all OD related electronics from the circuit.
That is certainly a Packard - specific problem (even if other brands used the R9 OD)!

my '41 120- won't start. I have had lots of help from AACA techncal forum, but no start yet.
basically the car ran fine after engine rebuild for 2000 miles. Now it will not start and floods when I try. I have spark, good compression, timing same as when running, and obviously, fuel. Could the timing chain sudenly "jump"? Distributor has not been removed . On a rare occasion, a single ignition might happen while trying to start, but the engine does not run.
Is any one aware of problems unique to these Packards that I should be checking?

How does heat get to the thermostatic choke (Carter WA I)?
Is the air flowing from the tube through the exhaust manifold and then through the spring, or does the heat merely diffuse into the chamber.? Reason for question: the manifold has rusted through the tube and exhaust crud got into the tube and the control chamber. A temporary solution would be to elongate the tube through the manifold so the opening is remote from the leaking area ,- I think this would work if heat diffuses in the tube, but might not get warm enough if the heated air actually flows through. Comments?

My '41 120 OD did not work. Dan Boehm cleaned it out because it was full of gunk and it now works like a charm! Apparently the whole problem was congealed oil and confirms Pat's post above.