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Board index » All Posts (elwoodp44)




Re: 700R4 behind a 288/327/356
#1
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
I have a Bendtsen adapter to put a GM 700R4 transmission on my 356 engine. I have not driven it yet but the adapter is a work of art. I've converted to 12 V since I want an Air Conditioner and an XM radio.

I've fabricated an engine rear mount as the 700R4 only has a rear mount and I think the aluminum transmission case might be a bit over-stressed at its front flange.

You can run your original starter on 12 volts but you might want to have it 'converted' to 12 v to ensure its life.

Posted on: 2015/9/21 17:12
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Re: Valve Timing correction for '48 356 Engine
#2
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
The Motors Auto Repair Manual says the valve timing check should be done with the hydraulic lifter bled down and enough shim stock between the lifter and the valve to give zero clearance. I can see that this would be the way to get a proper check of the valve timing. No mention of this procedure is found in my Packard Manual.

To fix the oil leaks I removed the pan and replaced the gasket. (BTW...I undid the front mount and stabilizer bolts and raised the engine slightly by placing pieces of 2 X 4 between the mount feet an the frame.) This made removal of the pan much easier.

With a knife and a wire brush I removed all the original gasket and the RTV I'd used (very slightly) to affix the gasket on the pan. I noted that several of the bolt holes were 'coned' slightly so I flattened the pan gasket flange surface with a hammer and backup block.

With the new gasket and proper bolt torque the new gasket was as dry as it could be. I ran the engine to get it up to temp and then ran it for at an additional 30 minutes at various rpms from 500 to 2500. I hate oil leaks so I'm a pleased as I can possibly be.

Also...the original check run was performed with 50-50 antifreeze and water. The water temp reached 185 from time to time during the run. This latest check was performed with mostly distilled water and some Napa cooling system additive. The the temperature peaked at 165 and then settled to 160 deg (the thermostat rating) and stayed there for the entire test. Ambient temp for the second run was slightly cooler than the first but I was still impressed that the water temp was so much cooler.

Posted on: 2015/9/21 12:32
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Re: Valve Timing correction for '48 356 Engine
#3
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
The BMW rally was great. The weather was perfect and the roads were very BMW friendly.

Started the engine yesterday and only have a couple of pan gasket drips so I'll work on that today. The engine idles smoothly at 500 RPM and I think it is ready for the body to be completed and installed on the frame.

The noisiest thing at idle is the fuel pump. I'll check the torque on the head nuts today, also.

Posted on: 2015/9/17 12:32
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Re: Valve Timing correction for '48 356 Engine
#4
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
Pre-oiled the engine and rotated the crankshaft many times. The #8 exh valve now does what it is supposed to do...the lifter for the #8 exh valve 'breaks loose' at 10 deg after TCD.

Using a dial indicator I verified that the TDC indication point on the damper is exactly TDC for the piston. BTW...if you mis-installed the sheet metal indicator on this engine you'd know it immediately.

I'll put the head on this afternoon but that's as far as I will go before next Monday. I've got a BMW motorcycle rally to attend tomorrow at Sipapu Resort near Taos, NM. This afternoon I must prep the motorcycle. Next Monday I'll return to the Packard and should have it running Wednesday or Thursday.

Mike

Posted on: 2015/9/10 13:00
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Re: '53 Caribbean
#5
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
My '48 Custom 8 was painted grey (I used Ford grey engine paint when I repainted it.) My '48 Std 8 was green, but someone may have repainted it in the last 67 years.
M.

Posted on: 2015/9/9 9:48
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Re: Valve Timing correction for '48 356 Engine
#6
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
My shop manual says that the #8 exh valve timing is to be used for checking the timing on the hydraulic lifter engines. I looked in another manual to see what the inlet valve timing is supposed to be and noted that it is supposed to open slightly before TDC...I checked my #8 cyl inlet valve and it is starting to open late. (If you had a solid lifter engine with large tappet clearances it seems like this would be the result.)

Now...could the hydraulic lifters not being full of oil have any effect on this? I bled-down all the lifters before re-installing the camshaft. Later in the day I'll pre-oil the engine and fill the crankcase with oil. Then I'll rotate the engine several revolutions to see if I can pump the lifters full of oil. Then I'll recheck the valve timing.

M.

Posted on: 2015/9/9 9:43
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Valve Timing correction for '48 356 Engine
#7
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
I just replaced a chipped cam follower on my '48 356 cu. in. engine. I did the timing check as described in the shop manual and find that the #8 exhaust valve hydraulic plunger breaks loose at TDC instead of 10 deg after TDC. The crank and cam timing marks are spot-on and the chain is new. I will retard the cam sprocket one tooth and try that. Does anyone have any experience with this issue?

Posted on: 2015/9/8 16:27
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Re: a/c drive
#8
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
I'll ask my machinist...I think he's busier now than when he was actually working for a living, though.

I'll be interested about alternator belt slip, too. My limited experience indicates that the alternator will be o.k. with about 60 degrees of engagement...maybe less. I will re-locate the idler pulley if there's a problem.

Originally I'd planned to put the a/c compressor on one side of the engine and the alternator on the other but after trying several positions putting them both on the driver's side seemed to make the most sense. Even though the passenger side is relatively open the manifolds and fuel pump do cause some problems.

Mike

Posted on: 2013/7/27 15:40
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a/c drive
#9
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
I modified the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley to accept a serpentine belt. Providentially a friend here in S.W. New Mexico is a retired Boeing machinist and he did a marvelous job converting the pulleys.

The brackets were fabricated from flat stock steel and the idler pulley and tensioner puller were ordered from Jegs. We'll run the engine soon for a no-load break-in test but I expect no problems. (Famous last words, along with 'It seemed like a good idea at the time')

M.

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Posted on: 2013/7/27 12:55
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Re: disc brake conversions
#10
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Mike Dowd
Regarding the spindle bolt pattern...my parts book only goes through '54 so I can't look this up, but do the different models use a common part like the drum brake backing plate or the gasket or something like that?

In the '48 cars there is a considerable difference between the front spindles...but the bolt patterns are the same. (Now that I've said that, I better go look this up just to make sure.)

Mike

Posted on: 2013/5/2 7:55
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