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Jack Vines

Re: Oiling system history recap and update on the Oldsmobile oil pump conversion

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Never seen the gears sold without both the shafts, because if the gears are worn enough to need replacing, it's a sure thing the shafts do also.

jack vines

Posted on: Yesterday 13:46

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Jack Vines

Re: Oiling system history recap and update on the Oldsmobile oil pump conversion

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Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
Wasn't planning on it. Are they available NOS, or you found some supplier?

I still need to inspect the oil pump I plan to use. Was going to today, but got tired 🥱

Packard replacement gears haven't been available in living memory. I bought the last of the Melling rebuild kits for Cadillac V8s and have figured out how to modify the Packard pump body to take the Cadillac gears and shafts.

jack vines

Posted on: 4/24 11:02

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Jack Vines

Re: Oiling system history recap and update on the Oldsmobile oil pump conversion

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Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
For grinding down the pump body, do you just jig them up on a Bridgeport? I assume about 2 thou impeller endplay is the goal?

Since we're only removing a few thou, a sheet of aluminum oxide paper on a flat surface is all that is needed.

You are replacing the gears and shafts aren't you?

jack vines

Posted on: 4/23 18:17

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Jack Vines

Re: Oiling system history recap and update on the Oldsmobile oil pump conversion

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Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
Thanks Jack but I'm not sure I'm following. Why wouldn't a shim with the same ID and OD of a gear, placed next to the gear, help reduce the pressure loss that would otherwise occur through that gap?

Only that in more than sixty years of looking inside oil pumps, I've never seen it done.

It's obvious the shims can't be full gear diameter, or they'd overlap. If the shim is the root diameter of the gear, there's still that space above the meshed gears to leak the pressure.

jack vines

Posted on: 4/23 14:34

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Jack Vines

Re: Oiling system history recap and update on the Oldsmobile oil pump conversion

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Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
One idea to repair excessive gear endplay would be to punch a 1/2” hole in some 1-1/2” disc shims, 0.002 thk then install one above each gear. The only difficult thing to DIY is getting the ID punched exactly in the center… or just use a 5/8 ID punch LOL.

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/2904T62

Whoa!! That procedure would just be trading a headache for a stomachache. The low oil pressure doesn't care on which end of the gear the excess clearance exists, only that it does. The only cure for excess end play is removing material from the bottom of the pump body.

jack vines

Posted on: 4/23 11:48

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Jack Vines

Re: V8 Engine Disassembly, Inspection

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Quote:

R H wrote:
A machine shop that works on older engines . Should have a lifter grinder.

It re grinds the bottom of lifter

Puts a curve on bottom

FWIW, we can regrind them. However, it costs almost as much in shop labor to regrind used hydraulic lifters as to buy new. They must be disassembled, with all parts from the same lifter kept together, regrind the lifter, clean all the parts, reassemble the lifter, cycle it in oil with the lifter pliers.

If a customer wants his used lifters reground, we'll do the bottom and send them back to him for disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, no warranty expressed or implied.

jack vines

Posted on: 4/15 14:19

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Jack Vines

Re: V8 Engine Disassembly, Inspection

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Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
How do you remove the oil pump on these? I already removed the distributor and the two oil pump cap screws. But it's not budging.

Most likely someone used Permatex. Just a tap sideways with a brass hammer is usually enough.

Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote:Also, is there anything special to testing the hydraulic tappets? I assume I just buy tappet pliers and follow the manual?

Visual inspection of the bottom surface is far more important than the pliers test. A lifter can test OK with the pliers and bottom be too worn to reuse.

jack vines

Posted on: 4/15 10:52

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Jack Vines

Re: 352 engine FOR SALE

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Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote:
Jack I suppose it's worth asking how to tell the difference between the two?

Easypeasy. The cast cranks have hollow rod journals and the forged cranks have solid rod journals.

jack vines

Posted on: 4/14 14:24

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Jack Vines

Re: 352 engine FOR SALE

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Quote:

humanpotatohybrid wrote: Why is the crankshaft worth keeping?

There is the remotest of chances yours might have had the OEM cast crankshaft replaced with a service part forged steel crankshaft. In sixty years of shredding Packard V8s, I've found two forged steel units in service.

As to why a forged steel unit is desirable, back seventy years ago, when some were using the Packard V8 in rail job dragsters, the forged steel crankshaft was welded and reground to make a 3.75" to 4" stroker crankshaft.

Obviously, that's not a common build today and finding a shop still willing to undertake a welded stroker crankshaft, well, good luck with that. Then, there's the necessary custom forged pistons, roller camshaft and a supercharger.

jack vines

Posted on: 4/14 10:55

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Jack Vines

Re: Used? 1956 Cam Retainer Plate

#10

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FWIW, these are NLA as new manufacture. We're now having to modify the original part. Works almost as well. Just wanted to let those considering the purchase know this is the last chance to get new production.

jack vines

Posted on: 4/11 9:50

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