I'm resurrecting this old thread.

After sitting for so long, it looks like the changes in Wisconsin law makes it possible for me to get a legal title for this car.

Anyway, I've started working on the car and it is in as bad of shape as I expected. To make it safe, I will end up replacing parts or all the frame. The body is going take major sheet metal work. The interior is the just as bad.

That being said, I've decided to do more of a retro-rod out of it. I'm keeping the engine because it checks out as being in good shape. The plan for it is electronic ignition and fuel injection. I'm also looking at a McCulloch supercharger. That would mean welding up a tube header and intake. Because flat head straight 8s are just cool as heck.

I'm also keeping the trim work. In the end, the car I want is going to look mostly stock but have modern upgrades to everything. I'll probably paint it light blue with the dark blue top to match my '54 Clipper.

If you are looking for anything, I will be putting parts in my ebay store. I'll post here when I do. For now, I'm accepting offers on the vacuum oiler by the wiper motor, the wiper motor, fuel pump with the vacuum pump, generator, auto trans, rear axle, suspension parts, brake parts, heater core, heater fan, clock, radio and interior parts.

The viscosity of the oil prevents that. At least with modern oils it does.

No, they do not contact. If they do, you are either using the wrong oil, don't have enough oil pressure or the clearances are wrong.

The reason they are soft, is absorb fine particulates instead of scoring the journal.

Mine started with a faint knock like that and low compression.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... um=2&post_id=106673#forumpost106673

I set mine hot then checked them cold to see the difference. There wasn't any.

It should be 35 degrees total. IF it isn't fully advanced by 2000, run it up to see where it is all in. I wouldn't think it will be much faster than that.

The biggest thing about the initial advance is too much works against the starter. WOT needs less and that's why there is a vacuum advance. More RPM can take more advance because of the speed of flame travel, hence the mechanical advance.

Yes, do a compression test. I would bet on burnt exhaust valve.

You guys are making way too big of a deal about this.

Clean up the weights and make sure they are free. Make sure the vacuum advance works and set the points. From there, mark your harmonic balancer at 35 degrees and time the engine to that mark at 2000 rpm. Listen for any knocking or pinging during full acceleration. If you hear it, back off 5 degrees.

It is what it is, don't worry about it.

iolaoldcarshow.com/

Anyone going? Showing their car?

I'm planning on taking the kids on Saturday afternoon. Looks like the weather will be nice this year.

Quote:

Knowledge is very valuable these days. But companies don't want to hire it, they what to buy it ala carte. So much of what I do in my shop, could be done cheaper in house by my customers, but they don't want to pay the kind of wages it would require to hire a skilled person. It ends up costing them more in the long run.

And speaking of threads, I have a big pile parts in the shop right now that I'm machining in a 5 inch-10tpi thread.