Howdy Old55Clipperguy.
Trying all those mentioned earlier as remedies before I take the head off. Do you mean a clean piston would be the issue area? Thanks for these tips, they may have to be done. Buying a new gasket means more expense and another long delay in the post to Aus.
I'm hoping there is give in the re-torque setting, and the bolt meets block area is not the culprit.
But what your saying is a good tip if I can't figure it out, even though all such comments are tightening my but cheeks. Old Betty is an all original matching numbers rhd.
I bought a remote starter to help get a compression test done.
I have the manual's measurements to check tappets.
Thanks again to everyone for all the great tips.

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Hi Ross.
Yes it probably sounds confusing, I will try to explain. Firstly my w/p has been leaking from the seal since the rebuild in 2016 so needed the rebuild anyway. As I'm a novice I thought this was the issue where the leak into engine was occurring.
I noticed rough running, once home, a check of the oil and noticed that horrible tell tale nasty creamy oil sight and a high reading. I had previously filled the coolant rather higher than I normally do.
I emptied slowly to see how much coolant there in the oil as its heavier and separates. This is the litre or so I'm talking about, and I'm not sure how long ago this had started, likely a couple of months.
With new oil added and without even a start up, I added roughly a litre, maybe less of coolant as it was sitting lower than the core top. But the amount was no where near where it flows over into the top of the block. I checked the level the next morning. It had dropped below the core however I could not see how much. Today I emptied the fresh oil to double check the level of coolant only to find very little, a lot less than expected. But remember it has rot run since changing.
I've only worked on air cooled V.W.s and I thought before w/p removal that the leak into engine was through the leaky shaft. Obviously this is not how they function.
My plan is first a compression test, to see if this not on spec. Then check how torqued the head bolts are, using the correct procedure. My mechanic also suggested checking the tappets, and adjust accordingly. I'm hoping this is not too hard.
Stay tuned all, fingers crossed as an extremely expensive engine rebuild is on the line.
Thanks for understanding my lack of knowledge.

It's the original 288. I did a test on the coolant level when the engine was cold and after replacing the oil. I added 1 litre above the core and checked it the next day and it had dropped about 1 cm below the internal core structure.
This is why I THOUGHT it was pump related.
Could it be a crack in the internal piping?
Should I be buying a borescope to check before fitting my rebuilt water pump?

Well it was done by a renowned mechanic who's been working on old vehicles for ages. So I'm hoping he did that in 16 if this is the procedure. I have a torque wrench so maybe I should check them to see if they are the correct manual guide spec. They may have loosened up then to allow the flow, I wasn't aware this could happen.
Is there any way the water pump could be responsible at all then?
I will call him in the morning to double check your question.

Hi there Kevin, thanks for responding.
Yes I noticed my oil had changed to a milky colour. The head gasket is newish, I just assumed it wouldn't be this or the valves.
Now I'm thinking that I have not done more diagnosis before jumping the gun on my water pump being the problem.
I'm a novice too as I've only worked on my old air cooled V.W's.
I don't think it's possible to do any compression test after taking off the water pump?
I had noticed that when starting even warmed up that it sounded like it was not running on all 8 cylinders.
This might be a sticking intake/exhaust valve issue after all. I didn't think coolant could leak in here but your probably right. I'm guessing this means mechanical work and I just had the carby rebuilt too. This is looking more and more expensive.
Now I'm cursing and thinking should have waited to hear back from my mechanic.
I'm not sure whether I should save my wallet on the pump rebuild and save it for my expensive mechanic now.

I just learned the hard way by overfilling my battery and having to clean all the acid leakage down the side. It came out the vent holes in the top of the cap. A real nightmare to clean out.

Hi everyone,
I would like some information regarding a leak of coolant into my engine. I had my engine re-bored/built only in 2016 at huge expense and I'm really hoping this is not an issue with the block.
I've had an occasional squeaking sound coming from my water pump and have thought this may need rebuilding. I've finally received the rebuild kit from Max Merrit Auto and removed it today for rebuild, however after removing it I found a bent internal brass sleeve. Is this the real culprit allowing coolant into the block?
Could people comment on water pumps being the issue of leaks?
Is there any easy way to determine any other way this could be occurring other that taking the head off the block?
Thoughts everyone?
Kind Regards, Gene.

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That was a thought I had, my eyesight must be failing me as it's on so tight it looks like its one piece of metal which never made sense for this novice mechanic. Thankyou everyone, I will be following these steps in the morning to get the bugger off hopefully without breaking it!
Thanks everyone for the guidance.
'I asked my Grandpa if I should own one'.
Gene.

Hello everyone.
I'm having an issue removing my carburetor for rebuild. This has to do with the bent metal pipe that connects from the exhaust manifold to the thermostatic housing assembly. After unscrewing the locking nut on the thermostat housing attached to the carburetor I find it is one-piece and un-removeable (see photos).
How do I remove this metal pipe? Detaching the Thermostatic housing assay from the carburetor is not mentioned in the 24th series service manual.
I'm in a rush to get this off to be rebuilt as my 200 Delux has been sitting with a full tank of perol for 9 months and I'm worried it's going off with the heat we have had this summer here in Adelaide.
Thankyou for any assistance everyone.

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Hi Everyone,
Unfortunately my 51 Packard water pump has sprung a slow leak that's just starting to increase in flow. My mechanic (Mike from J.H. Southcott's here in Adelaide) has suggested searching this online forum for PETER HALL who lives in Adelaide too.
Could anyone who know him help me in sending him a message or other contact details. I have heard his on holidays for a few months soon, so I know I may have to wait. I'd just like to make contact and see if he can help me out, or anyone else in South Australia whom can do the job.
Thank's to anyone who can point me in the right direction and keep my old Betty Blue cool!
Cheers, Gene.

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