Thank you for the replies.

I stared at the generator this AM, still not sure how to approach the lower hidden nut. I ended up under the car and found a small access window in the pan below the generator located exactly at the unseen nut. It ended up being easy from that point on. Not a 10 minute job, but not impossible either.

Now I hope the reassembly will be as smooth.

See you again. I know I'll have more questions....

Seth Gartner
Charlotte, NC

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My ammeter no longer shows any charging when engine is running at any RPM. I have tested only so far as to remove the ground from battery and this kills the engine. I presume my next step is removing the generator to send to a shop for rebuilding.

Here is my question. There are two bolts holding the generator drive end housing to the bronze plate and then to the chain case of the engine. (see photo) I have read to NOT remove the bronze plate. What is the correct technique for removing the generator but not the bronze plate? I see the two bolts, but what is at the hidden third position? A threadless positioning stud?
(see photo of a rebuilt generator, the third hole is at 4 o'clock position)

Any help and guidance is appreciated.

Seth Gartner
Charlotte, NC

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Thanks for confirming this should work. I came across it, but not much supporting info for me to know if it what I need.

The order has been placed!

I think my problem is a result of the brakes not fully releasing. The cable pulls on a lever mounted above the axle. This creates rotation of a linkage that uses a universal coupling to then enter the brake housing. If I help that linkage back to fully relaxed position, the wheel moves freely. So this raises two questions...

1.) I thought I might try greasing the fittings associated with this linkage. What type of grease gun fitting do I need to attach to the pin type grease fitting? See picture...sorry a bit blurry...

2.) If the linkage still doesn't return to the desired position, is it possible a weak or broken brake spring is to blame for lack of energy to return the mechanism to the brake release stop?

Thanks for any help.

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My 1924 touring car has an issue with the right front brake. When the steering wheel is turned for a right turn, the brake applies on the right front wheel. The wheel will rotate backwards, but it catches at a point and stops in the forward rotation. When the steering wheel is neutral, I can hear/feel a rub at a constant point as the wheel rotates forward but the wheel does not stop.

Any ideas on where to begin with this?

Thanks,

Seth Gartner
Charlotte, NC

Thanks for the info and ideas. The PAC website info is in hand as well.

I was not sure if the priming cups went into the cylinder or above the valves. We'll see if they work when I get to that point...

The gas tank is dry. Would there be any practical way of knowing if it needs cleaned from varnish before adding gasoline? Some sort of flush?

Again, with thanks ..

Seth

I now am in possession of my father's former Packard. It has not run in 5 years. My goal is to get it running as it was before his health took him away from the car. I was told to remove spark plugs and put some motor oil into each cylinder. I'm good with that.

Might there be any maintenance I should consider for the spark plugs? The distributor/points?

On top of the head are chrome cups on 1/4 turn valves. To where do these give access to? How would one use them?

Thanks, and more questions to come. I have LOTS to learn.

Seth Gartner
Charlotte, NC

This may be too late for your needs, but here is a photo I took last week when visiting my 1924 Packard single six Touring. It is with the driver's door open looking across the front of the seat at the floor.

I hope it helps.

Seth Gartner
Charlotte, NC

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Thanks to those with ideas. I now have some learning to do regarding some of those items.

How does one go about filling the vacuum tank before starting?

Is 5w-20 an oil recommended for this start up/lubrication only? What type of oil would anyone recommend as the general lubricating oil?

Thanks again.

Seth Gartner

It has been approximately 4 years since my 1924 6 cyl Touring car (model 120?) has run. At that time it was running fine. No stabilization measures were undertaken prior to this period of storage. I have the opportunity in this next coming month to get my hands dirty trying to prepare the engine to run.

I would appreciate any help from the forum with creating a check list of items to address so I don't cause any damage to this fine car and giving me a good chance for successful starting of the motor. I have had one individual suggest even pulling spark plugs to spray inside the cylinders with WD-40 before trying to turn the crankshaft. Any thoughts?

My plans are to relocate the car to my backyard this fall so more attention is possible and also to enjoy the car regularly.

Thanks for any help.

Seth Gartner
Charlotte, NC