Thanks. This will go into my notes binder.

Thanks. My system has one muffler, but I'll take your other suggestions and work on them tomorrow.

Now that I have my electrical issue solved, I've managed to get my engine to fire up and actually drive my 120C around the block. Ever since I reassembled the car with the new exhaust system, the engine noise has been quite loud. I've replaced the exhaust gasket (the metal one) and checked to see that everything else is tight but to no avail. I contacted the company that supplied the new exhaust system and they said that what I ordered was the correct one. I've ridden in '37 120s before and they are not that loud. My only other idea might be that the replacement exhaust system was the incorrect one for my car regardless of what the company said. Does anyone have any bright ideas as to what else it might be??
Thanks again for your help. The information concerning the voltage regulator proved immeasurable.

Thanks ever so much. That does answer that question because whenever I do put the negative battery post onto F and then place my voltmeter on G across to the positive post, I get no draw. I did not have the schematic that might have shown me this. I will definitely keep this in my notes and now I can go ahead, put the wiring back in place and try to get my engine fired up. Since you did not mention the A terminal, I assume that is correct being the generator armature input.
This information has been immeasurable and I thank you for providing it.
For Fred, my copy of Motors Manual should arrive by Wednesday.
Again, my great thanks to you all for your expertise.

Hi, yes. Packard is positive ground. In my testing I attached the negative pole of the battery to the battery terminal of the regulator, labeled B in the picture, and then touched the positive post of my voltmeter to the positive post of the battery and the negative post of my voltmeter to the connection labeled G in my picture. I get voltage through that path which tells me that there is some connection between this battery terminal, B, and the frame of the voltage regulator. Now, I have another VRR-4005A regulator that has not touched the car but I get the same results when performing this same test. That is what is causing this current draw and when I have everything hooked up is causing a spark when I attach the ground line attached to the frame of the car to the battery. I have not been able to locate any information as to whether this regulator is supposed to act in this way or not, so I'm assuming that it is not supposed to allow current to flow from the output line to the battery, negative pole, directly to ground. I do not wish to try to polarize the regulator with it performing in this manner for fear of burning something up. I do have documentation coming my way that might give me the specs on a different regulator that match the VRD-4005A that was originally on the car, but which I cannot seem to locate anywhere at this time. I have contacted Mike at Tuscon Packard to see if he an track down one for me but as of yet there has been no response. The other Packard parts stores do not list any compatible regulators in stock. If anyone has any other ideas on leads, then I would be more than happy to entertain them. As per usual, I do so appreciate any information and input you might be able to give me. Thanks.

Thanks, Fred and a Happy New Year to you, too. There is one thing you can do when you have time and that is to test your VRP-4002E regulator in the following manner. 1) attach the positive pole of your 6V battery to the terminal labeled Battery on the regulator, 2) using a voltmeter, touch the ground terminal on the regulator with the voltmeter positive lead and the voltmeter negative lead to the positive pole of the battery and see if there is a current draw. If there is, then that would mean, to me that is, that there is a direct connection between the terminal that leads to the battery and ground, which I don't think should be. If there is no current flow, then I would like to know how much you would want for that VRP-4002E regulator.
Thanks again for the wishes. Take care.

Thanks, Pepe. I did find a green copy of Motor's Keep em Running manual and have ordered it. I'm also looking at the VRD-4002A regulators. I'll send an update once I determine the next steps.
Thanks, again.

Hi, Pepe. Yes, I would love a copy of that manual if possible. Or, failing that, if you would tell me which version contains this information, I'll just order one from the internet. Here is what I have thus far:
On the picture, of my VRR-4005A regulator, I have labeled the terminals with what I believe to be the correct connections. On the upper right labeled "B" is the battery connection. Across from it labeled "A" is the line from the generator armature. Just below that labeled "F" is the line from the generator field terminal and the bottom where the regulator is attached to the body I have labeled "G" for the line connecting the generator ground.
Today, I removed the regulator and battery from my car and performed these tests. First, I connected the negative side of the battery to the "B" terminal and then testing the voltage between the "G" point and the positive side of the battery. I showed 6.2 volts through that circuit. I then connected the negative side of the battery to the "A" terminal and tested the voltage between the "G" point and the positive side of the battery. I received the same reading of 6.2 volts. I then connected the negative side of my battery to the "F" terminal and tested the voltage between the "G" point and the positive side of the battery and did not see any voltage. When connecting to the "G" point, I just inserted an alligator clip into the hole and insured that it was not touching anything else. These tests were performed on my workbench away from my car.
I firmly believe that this is the point of my current draw. Could this be a symptom of a damaged voltage regulator or one that has not been properly polarized?? Or, could this possibly be the incorrect regulator for my '37 120C?
Yes, if it would be possible for you to send me a copy of the Keep 'em Rolling Motor Manual, I would greatly appreciate it. Right now, based on these tests, I am at a standstill. If I connect everything as it should be, I'm afraid that the current draw would be too much prior to me attempting to polarize the regulator before something burns up.
Again, to all of you, I do appreciate your input and help in this.

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Thanks. That is where I'm going next. I run a small business here in Whitewright, TX and have not been able to spend a lot of time trying to analyze the issue further. After looking at the schematics and what is connected and what is not, it very may be possible that the draw is caused by something else. I should have time this week-end to be able to spend a couple of contiguous hours trying to see what else it might be.
Again, thanks for all of your input.

Thanks, then yes, the cutout relay is open when no voltage is applied. So. then I must have a short in the other coil somewhere or somewhere else I've not been able to track down.
Thanks.