Thanks so much for taking the time to advise me. I ordered the BTC570C and now move forward into uncharted territory.

Thanks for the suggestion Peter. Will try it out.
Jake

Thanks Howard. I have to confess to being virtually illiterate when it comes to electronics. There are hundreds of meters listed on Amazon. It's not clear whether the ones with amp meters measure DC. Would you be able to suggest one?

Thanks for the tips, guys. And for the authorization to buy a volt meter.

In the meantime, I looked at a bunch of posts related to the hot cranking topic and other potential culprits seem to be the armature bushings and coil.

It will take me a while to get back to this but I will update the post when I figure it out.

Persistent problem on my 115C: with battery fully charged and easy starting when engine cold, I notice very slow cranking when engine is fully warmed up. I am not sure how to read this symptom - is it the starter solenoid not functioning well when hot, the starter itself, or does it just take more juice to turn over a hot engine? Is there a way to diagnose the issue short of buying replacement parts until it goes away?

Hi again - does anyone know a supplier for replacement rubber floor mats (the mat that spans from the front seat to the vertical bend of the firewall and covers the jute padding)? Photos attached of the pax side which, although very brittle, is still largely intact. Drivers side is almost disintegrated. Existing has about a 1" plain border and within border is narrowly ribbed.

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That makes sense to me - thanks!

Sorry if this is a repeat - tried to send the same message an hour ago and didn't see that it posted.

Anyway thanks Don and everyone else who responded. FYI the service bulletin advising wiring in series is Vol 16 No 1, which I got from this site under the 1942 service letters. While that approach is convenient I am not sure it is applicable to my model year and I agree it would probably require a circuit breaker.

It seems from the comments that the safest thing to do is go with a parallel set up and separate switch. The lights are 4012A sealed beam bulbs and come with a switch and 20amp fuse so it might not be a good idea to run them in series with the small amp parking bulbs.

Thanks again.
Jake

I obtained from Kanter a pair of fog lights for my 1937 Packard 115C and am trying to figure the best way to wire them. The kit comes with a switch which must be mounted under the dash and wired separately from the rest of the harness. I am not enthusiastic about that approach for a couple of reasons, one being the switch is funky and not period consistent, the other being info I got from Service Bulletin 16/1 where it states such lights should be wired in series to the parking lights.

I would like to go the latter route so I am trying to scope that out. The harness forks on the left side of the engine to go to the respective headlight assemblies and I can expose the parking light wires there. One question is what kind of a splitter I should use since I will be plugging two lines in (parking light and fog light) for each side. The second question is whether I need a separate ground wire for each light because the fog light standards are anodized aluminum and they are attached to the powder coated bumper bracket so don't think I'll get a good ground connection there.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Jake

Afterword on this issue. I did get in touch with John Wolf who repaired both the odometer and the clock in good time. On the clock, he repaired both the original movement, which I have stored, and installed a new quartz movement. I reinstalled the odo and clock by November last year and they continue to work fine about a year out. Thanks again for commenters steering me in Wolf's direction.