The engine photo in your first post shows a 6 cylinder engine, the 236 model is an eight cylinder?

If my memory is correct, it's a mechanically driven gauge. There is a float in the fuel tank that rotates a wire the moves the needle. Hopefully, someone can provide more detail

[i]Looks like the industry only used them 5 years then went to electric sending units.

For good reason, might have been better if they had abandoned the idea 5 years earlier.

Karl,
Despite my comments about carbon fibre, all of the panel repairs on my cars were done using your method, sheet metal. All welding was with oxy/acetylene, I suspect that MIG would be much better but have not tried it and I have already completed my last restoration. Your Sport will be a gem.

Karl,
I recently helped a friend with an aluminium bodied car that had splits in the body. There was timber under the splits so welding was not an option. The owner had a friend who builds and repairs high end super yachts. His friend repaired all of the splits using carbon fibre matting bonded to the aluminium. The finished repair was very thin so very little filling was required to blend the repair. The results were impressive, to say the least but it was not a simple DIY job. It was a job for an expert.
I would think that if you can find a similar expert in your country it would be a very effective repair for your fenders.

Reproductions of those parking lights were available some years ago. I have some damaged ones left over from the restoration of 1930 740 that I would offer to anyone who needs them but I have never seen a request for them in many years. There are differences between the standard and super models.

I have had shimmy while crossing train tracks at slow speed and I have had it at 40 mph rounding a curve and hitting a bump. Speed was not the trigger. All of the possible causes discussed here had been eliminated. It happened on both a 1922 Packard and a 1929, I suspect that the very large heavy wheels are a factor even though they had been balanced but I never found a definite cause and it rarely happened.

What type of wheels? Wood spoke, disc or wire? Front or back?

How about a photo of a wheel.

These cars steer beautifully if the wheel alignment is correctly set up so I do not see any point in locking the trunnion springs. Braking is also very good.

On the subject of wheel alignment, I found that the front axles on all of the 3 1920's cars I restored to be out of alignment. Not visible to the naked eye but all needed significant correction to the kingpin inclination angle. This work is easily carried out by truck repair specialists.

I drove only one of my cars before the front axle was aligned and it did not steer well but was excellent after only minor correction to the kingpin inclination angle.

The shutter are bolted to the front of radiator, so the radiator surround must first be removed. The shutter thermostat opens and closes the shutters, the spring is a relatively light spring to assist in closing the shutters.