They have an interference fit so often require some heating of the block to remove them.

They are rolled only on the block end. In my own recent work that Howard so nicely mentioned with some reproduction studs from Tucson Packards, nuts would go on one end only but not on the other although I always use high temperature thread sealer anyway whenever replacing studs just as added insurance.

Both Falcon and non-Falcon Rancheros were built.

One day in the ‘80s I was driving along in my 1941 Henney-Packard when coming the other way was a ‘48 Henney-Packard Landaulet. The way the other driver reacted, which was not at all, you would have thought it an everyday occurrence!

By the way, you’re looking for grille bars, not grill bars.

If the battery is in the trunk, be sure it has at least 00 ga cables. Anything smaller will likely starve it of the needed amps at the starter.

The kits I buy have the rods attached to the diaphragms so no re-peening necessary.

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That's more or less what I've always done and, of course, it is necessary to use a new gasket.

Cracks or not, it can very likely be rebuilt. Sleeve the cylinder(s) and if necessary replace the valve seat(s) if the cracks run into them.

It’s tricky and just needs perseverance but I am unaware of any special tricks. I typically install it first, though, as on some pumps I can look through where the fuel diaphragm goes to see that I’m doing inside.

I’m not sure how your year of car was originally but it seems an odd place for the inlet. Is it the correct carburetor? If it is, maybe consider a right angle fitting right at the carburetor to minimize the section that is currently over the manifold. Also, my 1939 had a heat shield on the carburetor itself.