Type F.

Since they are to be gloss black you might consider powder coating for the panels and window frames as that will save you a lot of steps.

Best go stroll out and look at the engine. Most of the fifties that have been through here used the standard sized plug.

Massey Ferguson Grey from Tractor Supply works great. Use their hardener with it.

I agree with Owen on the original type. As it is a face seal, you would have to turn up an adapter to hold a modern seal and weld it to the inside of the timing cover.

The valleys are supposed to be black on the whole length of each trim piece. The paint just happened to survive under the words and a few other places near the edges.

Some folks have redone those pieces with black striping tape. I had pretty good luck with a quality paint pen.

Usually the right pipe can stay. The left front pipe has to be removed or a section cut out to get the bell housing to pass. Off the top of my head the band adjuster o-rings are 9/16 OD and .06 cross section. You can just match them up at the hardware store.

Hooked up as you describe, the hot water is shooting out the back of the right cylinder head and is sucked right back into the water pump without ever coming near the radiator. When everything is moving that may be OK, but when sitting you will be recirculating way too much.

Just pinch the hose with a Visegrip for now.

I have in a somewhat sad 37 120. I'll save the story of how poorly the brakes were serviced for another day. This rancid thing would start making steam after traveling about 1 1/2 times around the block. There were muddy deposits in the neck of the radiator and the air blowing back off the radiator while on fast idle was not all that hot.

Well,I thought, this thing must be horribly plugged up. But just to be sure I will check the thermostat. Oh, the thermostat is MIA; nothing but a big hole. So I installed a nice modern 180 degree stat as that was what I had on hand. I slapped it back together and poured in my oxalic acid to begin the slow process of dissolving the gook. This should take hours.

The car never got hot again! It came up to temperature, the thermostat opened, and intense heat rolled back off the radiator as it should. This was long before the acid could have done anything.

Simply put, the car needed the restriction in the cooling system to make it cool properly. I'd heard of this many times, usually in regard to flathead V8 Fords, but never seen it so dramatically. I am still running the acid in it to be thorough, but immediately after installing the thermostat the car became capable of climbing a hill on a 95 degree day. That was 100% out of the question before.

So, a word to the wise as you chase heating problems. Don't ditch your thermostat. That will make it worse.

First time through? Two days. Jacking, blocking, cutting exhaust pipes, cleaning, replacing the seals, applying Bandaids.

By all means replace the selector and throttle seals. Consider also putting new O-rings on the band adjusters. These parts are now outside their normal service life by a factor of six.

If your front seal has a major leak please check your reactor clutch. If it is stuck it generates enough heat to kill a seal rather quickly. With your convertor on the bench, grab the inner splined shaft and spin it in both directions. One way should be noticeably easier. If both directions feel the same, the clutch has locked up and must be dealt with.