You can use a lid from any of the postwar trannies. The have the advantage of an extra internal support for the interlock which makes shifting more positive. You will have to use your 1-R shifter yoke as it has the tab for disabling the overdrive while in reverse--unless you stumble across one for an R9, in which case, just bolt the lid on.

Your channels are not symmetrical now--but they were when new and the generic stock from Restoration Specialties will work just fine for you. For door weatherstrip I prefer to use generic Street Rod weatherstrips where I can. Otherwise, you are stuck with Steele--which you can buy at a better price through Kanter Bros.

I looked through your photos and am impressed with the work that you have done. With the 327 and overdrive that car will be very pleasant to drive and will cruise easily at 130.

Clippy, being a proper working girl, is not afraid of the cold, but only the salt. Here is a trip through beautiful Lancaster county to pick up 3 complete exhaust systems and an errant Ultramatic. Wishing you all a very fine New Year.

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I'm guessing it was a running car at the time it was painted, and with the good dry storage you will not have too much trouble getting the engine fired up.

Before you fire, check the fluid level of the trans--left front corner of the case, and very awkward. As long as there is something showing on the stick you are OK to start. After it has run a bit the convertor will refill and I can guarantee you will need to add some Type F ATF to bring it up to level. It would not be a bad idea to have the trans in N and the rear wheels up so it can spin along with engine and let the fluid find its way into all the bushings. After that, you will just have to drive it and see what happens. Seals are readily available if needed. Of course, if you need to yank the engine, bring the trans out with it and do a reseal job.

Would suggest you change both hinges to the '52-56 style. They bolt right in and have a vastly superior action. I always throw the 51 style away as they let the trunk lid come down like a guillotine. PM me if you would like a pair.

Congratulations. I'm sure we would all like to see some photos and hear the story as you progress.

I usually run 35 in the front for easy steering and a little sharper handling. (sharp is a relative term for a bathtub Packard) At the rear I'd pump in 28 for a normal sedan, but for a long wheelbase heavy car 32 would be fine.

You performance problems are not related to oil pressure. Your car needs a tuneup.

If you are not having any problems with lifter noise then the oil pressure is probably OK.

I know that brake fluid can certainly remove paint when I don't want it to and I rather doubt it will hurt the vinyl, so why not soak an old piece of towel with it and lay it on a spot to try it out. It will take a little time.

And it is in regards to an automobile, so it must be Autocad.