Some of the worst vehicles ever made were designed and produced in the 70's and early 80's, regardless of the Marque. The entire vehicles were junk. That is the main reason foreign imports began to gain traction with the consumer. Compared to most of the junk produced in that era, the Packards produced in the 50's were pretty near perfect.

Brian Thanks,
I have been "OFF SITE" so to speak and just saw your post and it is much appreciated, I'll check it out.
The weather here in Hampton Roads has been and remains to be too bad to mess with the car but, I'll get back on it, soon I hope.

PackardV8,
Thanks again for providing such detailed information. I usually try to use the hex end (drive) of the socket to remove the sq. headed pipe plugs, if the hex on the plug is in good shape, if not then (like you)I use a six point socket. I also like to use brass instead of aluminum or steel. I sure hope they weren't replaced by allen headed plugs, those things are usually a nightmare if installed in dirty locations or where exposed to road grim,salt and whatever.
We are having a winter (snow,sleet,wind) storm today and for the next few days so I won't get to it until there is better weather.

I'll keep you posted on events.

BH. Thanks.
I did see in the manual about the drain plugs but, as many times as I have been under there I can't recall seeing them. Probably four years ago I did look and check out the freeze plugs to make sure they were in good shape.


Packardv8, Thanks, good info.


I'll check it out and let you guys know how I make out.

Will opening the radiator drain cock completely drain the engine (provided the front of engine is lower than the rear), without removing any hoses? 56 PAT.

BigKev,
Thanks, I'll keep on the lookout for one.

BigKev, Thanks again.
Where did you find your 8 sided "proper" crimping tool.

BH, Thanks,
I haven't been to a swap meet for (guessing here) 30 years or more, but I'll have to make it a point to start going again.

JW,
Mine must be non-suppressive because they all have very little resistance.

HH56,
I'll check out that web site for sure.


Thanks everyone and I'll let you know the outcome, shouldn't take very long after the weather gets a little better.

Big Kev Thanks,
Thats a great photo. and some good info. Were the boots for the wires on the 440 the same as the 56 PAT?

BH,
My brackets are bright metal and each bracket has 4 slots with "big" gromets that have slits so they fit down into the slots, in ther words they are the same ones that mentioned in one of the service counselor bulletins as replacement because of complaints the other style allowed the wires to have too much drop or droop.
I agree, at the present I can get by just changing the boot(s) on the coil wire, I think it is long enough to trim off the coil end, I'll recheck but I'm pretty sure the dist end is still okay. But, I want to make sure I get all of the necessary parts to replace everything if (when) I need to do so. They are only going to get harder and costlier to find.

The Hampton roads area is the worst place I have ever lived, when it comes to finding anything that isn't sold in a big box store or the big chain auto parts supply houses.
I have asked all of the repair shops and mechanics that I have been in and no one knows anything other than the chain stores or web sites. One of my neighbors just retired from
a ford dealership and had worked as a auto mech. for 40 years at different repair shops and he doesn't know of any local independent parts supply shops. But, like you said some of the old repair shops may have some needed parts. A guy just needs to keep looking all of the time. Whenever I drive from VA. up to NJ, MD, PA or DE, I always look for Packards and parts stores, etc.

BH,
Thanks again, some more great info.
My pat has the later "finger type" with the "O"ring type grommets in the slots to protecj the wire.
The reason I have started looking for plug wire set is, I noticed the coil wire to dist. was arcing from the boot to the neg. term side of the coil as I was using a remote starter switch to crank the engine after replacing my dist.
The wires and the boots to the plugs seem to be okay. I had just checked them prior to pulling the dist, by visually checking with eng. running at night, and there were no arcs, that I could see. I then physically held the boot at the plug(with eng. running)while touching the block with my other hand and didn't even get a tinble. I know each plug was firing because I had checked that priviously with my in line spark tester.

BigKev, Thanks, Did the OEM wires have Packard or Delco logo on them.
You both make a good point about the solid wire cores being very durable. I could probably get the boots for plugs and dist.including the coil and use my old wires, if needed.