Thanks Howard.....
I may work on this a bit later. At least I know that the odds are good that I'm mechanically functional, for the time being. We can work toward getting a good looking parade care up and going. You guys are the greatest.
Later,
Boodog

I suspected that this was more complicated than the old Ford overdrives. Since this car will not be a touring vehicle, I think the best thing to do is lock out the overdrive manually. It seems that I will not be able to get the overdrive gear ratio, without the other controls, which no longer exist on this car.
Have a Great Evening,
Boodog

Thanks Guys.....
This makes sense, as the clutch is working perfectly when the peddle is released. A properly functioning clutch and pressure plate will also function well in a downshift. As it is, the car is totally "freewheeling", when a downshift is attempted. As stated, there is no electrical connection whatsoever with the drivetrain. If I were to reconnect the cable, could the overdrive be made to function, or would it require an electrical connection, a well? It looks as though there is a solenoid on the transmission. I don't know whether it's overdrive, or something to do with the old electromatic clutch?
Again, Many Thanks
Boodog

Thanks Guys....
When I got the car there was not even a remnant of the electromatic clutch left on it. I just finished a complete re-wire (upgraded) of the entire car. There are no wires going to the clutch or overdrive. The carb linkage is only operating the throttle. I put a key start switch in, so there is nothing electrical involved with the accelerator. The mechanical overdrive cable was and still is disconnected. I am not interested in the overdrive functioning. If it is a matter of taking it out of overdrive, could I do this with the mechanical overdrive lever, under the car. Would this have any affect on the failure of the clutch to re-engage on the down-shift?
Thanks
Boodog

Hi Folks...
Just took my 49 Deluxe 8 out for her first spin, Sunday. Lots of work left to do, but needed to make her run. All went well, but when slowing down and downshifting into second gear there is no "back-wrap". It acts as if the clutch fails to re engage. I did not attempt to accelerate, at that point. I simply braked to a stop. She had (not since I owned it) an electromatic clutch. Is this some "magic" characteristic of the beast. It seems nearly impossible for the clutch not to re-engage, when the pedal is released.
Thanks for any help!
Boodog

Looks very nice. By the time I get the motor and inverter, I will have well over $300.00 in the setup, but I will also have a nice 12 volt supply for such things as a modern radio, GPS, cell phone charger, etc. This makes the cost a little easier to swallow. The old 49 was a "barn find" and in pretty bad shape. Like all restorations, it's a labor of love. If you count the cost it will drive you nuts.
Later
Boodog

I think I will go ahead with the electric conversion. My fuel pump is not functioning. I have already replaced it with a rear mount electric. Not going for a "points" car, just a sharp looker. Yogi's has a New Port inverter that handles up to 7 amps, and a motor that draws a max of 3 amps. I'm guessing it won't be a "bolt-up", but a little fabrication work won't hurt. I was just hoping there might be a direct replacement.
Many Thanks,
Boodog

My vac. Wiper motor on my 1949 - 2362 is shot. I would like to go back with a 6 volt replacement. Anybody out there got the solution?
Thanks a bunch,
Boodog

I don't know what the float was made of. It was missing when I pulled the sender. Thanks for the link. It looks like that copper one would be just right. Bye the way, I already had a universal sender coming when I decided to tie into the old one. I am curious enough to want to play with it, when it arrives. I will do it all on the bench, so I can send it back if I can't make it work. I will let you know how that comes out.
Later,
Boodog

I actually wound up rebuilding my own sending unit. The.tube had deteriorated so that the little crankshaft was totally unsupported. I took two pieces of 26 ga galvanized sheet metal about 3/4" long and drilled the proper diameter holes in the center of each. I then took a snips and cut from the bottom, on each one. I made sure they we the size to slide over the shaft from the bottom. I curved each one to conform to the tube diameter. Forced them into the tube at each end of the shaft. Drilled a hole on each side of each shaft and pop-riveted each one. I fired it up on the bench. It needed adjusted. I popped the cap cleaned and bent the contractors until she was reading right. It works perfectly. It took some time and a couple of re-try's but it didn't take as long as trying to find a good one. A couple hours and 25 cents worth of parts seems like a good deal. I'm still looking for a float. Might just solder on some old carb floats.
Later,
Lyle