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Board index » All Posts (bobtibia)




Re: Chasing Rough idle...compression?
#1
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gone1951
To help set Fred straight the clothes pins were placed on the fuel line not the plug wires.

Posted on: 2011/5/26 18:52
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Re: Chasing Rough idle...compression?
#2
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gone1951
Quote:
But just not randomly stuck on a line like you were hanging laundry. I cant see what it could possibly do to affect the temperature of the line, or the fuel inside of it.


Kev, I don't have any idea either why it seemed to work. I always thought that the wooden clothes pins helped to dissipate some of the heat. From what I remember about my Moms cad there were a lot of pins not just a few. Who knows?


I have to add that I did try the clothes pin thing on my Packard which does seem to vapor lock on hot days and it didn't help. Oh well.

Posted on: 2011/5/26 18:38
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Re: Chasing Rough idle...compression?
#3
Home away from home
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gone1951
Quote:
Now it's wires that touch and clothes pins on fuel lines to cure vapor lock. The closest terminology I can think of is mass hysteria



Fred I'm the last one to fall for snake oil remedies or believe in old wives tales but I must tell you that I am not the only person that has benefited from the old clothes pin fix. In the 60's my mothers 53 Cad would routinely vaporlock above roughly 5000 feet on a hot day. I'm not talking once or twice. It was so bad you could hardly use the car except on short trips the the local store and back. The clothes pins on the line between the fuel pump and the carburetor did prevent it. Never had any more vapor lock problems in fact when they sold the car a couple years later the gas line still looked like a clothes line. Note: the carb and fuel pump were replaced in an attempt to correct the problem. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes.

I know what you're thinking. The next thing is I'll tell you is crop circles are done by little green men from outer space.

Posted on: 2011/5/26 14:24
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Re: Chasing Rough idle...compression?
#4
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gone1951
To quote Kanter: Quote:
Lets try to keep the advice given here limited as much as possible to verified sources and keep the clothes pins on the clothes line.



Lets keep these kinds of comments to yourself. You, my friend, are not as smart and wonderful as to think you are.
Are you a verified source?

Posted on: 2011/5/24 20:40
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Re: servicing the front turn signal lights on a 51
#5
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gone1951
Interesting however all the JB weld, the soldering and breaking off tabs was not necessary at all. Replacement sockets that are almost identical to the origional sockets are available at any good auto supply although they will not be listed under Packard. You have to go through the book and look at the pictures.

Found it was a lot easier to remove the whole turn signal assembly than try to replace the socket in the car. Makes it a lot easier to rewire the thing.

Posted on: 2011/5/24 10:38
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Re: radiator for a 288 versus a 327
#6
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gone1951
Quote:
Interesting. The old cap is a 7 psi type, with a dimension of 7/8" from the rubber gasket under the top to the bottom of the seal.


Did you read my last post?? 7/8" is not enough. No wonder you loose water. You might as well leave the cap off. I just measured the drop on my radiator and it is 1". You need to find the correct cap. Your cap is 1/8" short. No Seal. I told you My car had the same problem when I got it (WRONG CAP).

Quote:
I think I would like to try the 13 lb version.


I would not. The system was designed for a 7 lb. cap and that's what should be on there. Increasing the pressure will only increase the possibility of blowing something out.


Again, Just try the correct cap. 7 lb. with a 1 inch drop.

The The parts dealer here where I bought my cap did not have the cap listed for Packard per say. He just went through his books and found a 7 lb. cap with the proper drop. Wish I could remember the number on it. I would give it to you.

Posted on: 2011/5/18 18:37
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Re: radiator for a 288 versus a 327
#7
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gone1951
Quote:
The radiator is boiling over, with the cap whistling until the water cools down



Had one thought. Did you replace the radiator cap between the time you pulled the motor and the time you reinstalled? If so is it possible you have the wrong cap. The distance between the top surface of the filler neck on the radiator and the surface where the cap seats inside the filler neck is greater than on most newer radiators. Something like 1 inch. If you just grabbed a 7 pound cap off the shelf at the local auto supply that looked right you may have picked up a cap for a newer radiator that may have a drop of say 3/4 inch vice the 1 inch it should be. Hence the cap would never seat. It would be like running the car with out a cap at all. Something to check. My car had the wrong cap when I got it and would boil over in just a few miles. Installed the correct cap and haven't had a problem in years.

The other thing is that you will always loose some water overboard if you top the water level off. As the water gets hot it expands and has to go somewhere. That somewhere is out the overflow tube and onto the ground. When it boils over and you let it sit and hence stop venting water and you restart it does it start to boil over again as it warms up? Where is the temp gauge sitting when it boils over.

If you check the water level after it cools down and you can check it without loosing a lot more water is the level say 1 to 1 1/2 inches below the top of the radiator or is it well below that level with the tops of the tubes showing with no water above them? If the level is only say 1 inch down I would run the car again and see if it just warms up and boils over again or will it then run without loosing any more water.

Posted on: 2011/5/16 15:25
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Re: Packard Tool J-2553, Need Tool or Specs.
#8
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gone1951
OK, I get it. in essence not any different than grinding the valve stem on an overhead valve engine with unadjustable rockers to the proper height.

Question, with proper valve stem height the plunger in the lifter is depressed and there is 0.00 valve clearance?

Posted on: 2011/5/13 17:54
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Re: Packard Tool J-2553, Need Tool or Specs.
#9
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gone1951
Quote:
but if seats and/or valves were machine cut and/or any valves replaced you need to establish the correct clearance (0.030 to 0.070 inch if I remember correctly).


I must be missing something here. I will be doing a valve grind this summer on a 327 with hydraulic lifters. Haven't looked it up however I think with all engines,irregardless of manufacture that have hydraulic lifters, the valve clearance is 0. Also the plunger/piston inside the lifter must be depressed against the internal spring somewhat. For instance a chevy with adjustable rockers you first adjust to 0 clearance then take the adjustment one full turn past that to place the internal piston in it's correct operating position.
Your reference to 0.030 to 0.070 inches must be the clearance for adjusting for solid lifters.


Comments??

Posted on: 2011/5/13 12:34
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Re: turn signal lens
#10
Home away from home
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gone1951
Quote:
Since amber did not come out until later I am keeping them clear plus I think they look better. I did find them at Max Merritt for $35.00 plus shipping did not know I could get it that cheap.I ordered it today.



Are the lenses from MM glass or plastic? I have bought several original spares off ebay for a lot less money. Also have been able to clean out the rust from a glass lense. The glass itself shouldn't stain. The rust is on the surface and should clean off.

Posted on: 2011/4/13 16:27
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