If I am correct (and if we are talking about the same Station Sedan shown in the following webURL -https://bangshift.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/packard1.jpg), I believe that this vehicle in question was purchased and is on display at The Citizen's Motorcar Company - America's Packard Museum (http://www.americaspackardmuseum.com/) in Dayton, OH.

I may be wrong, but, I am sure that there are not many restorations of the Packard Station Sedan done in that color and without the wood paneling on the doors.

Thank you for all of the input on this issue. I greatly appreciate the knowledge and insights.

One last question that has been puzzling me: If a Ballast Resistor on the coil can bring the coil voltage from 12V to an 8V operating voltage (after starts), can the same be done for a "primary" power feed to the entire car?

Maybe, I am showing my lack of experience upon this matter, but if a Ballast Resistor was placed upon a "primary" power connection to the car (if existed), this would cause the entire vehicle's voltage would operate on 8V, which would be closer to the factory 6V without requiring Bulbs and gauges to be rewired. (I am probably wrong with this assumption.) This would "in theory" allow the vehicle to operate on "dual" voltages (12V for the starting and 6V for the "auxilaries").

Either way, I am trying to find the simplest (probably not possible)way to complete this conversion.

Fred,

Thank you for this information.

Is there anything else that I may need to look out for in regards to this type of conversion from 6V Positive Ground to 12V Negative Ground (i.e gauges, fuel sending unit, etc) that I may be forgetting?

Howard,

Thank you for the information. I appreciate the insight. Just trying to not get in over my head on this since I am working with multiple people on this project and trying to keep everyone "on the same page".

I do not want to damage anything more in the process of this. I know that it will not be a quick switch-over; but also do not want a major catastrophe to occur in the process.

Cli55er,

You are correct. The '55 Clipper generator is Positive Ground; while the '56 is Negative Ground. Thank you for catching me on this.

I have a question for the experts out there.........

I have started the conversion of the my 1949 Super 8 Deluxe (2372) from factory 6V Positive Ground to 12V Negative Ground to make starts easier and more drivable.

I have stared the process with getting a generator from a 1956 Clipper (12V Positive ground) and having it rebuilt (new bearings, windings checked, new brushes, glazing removed, etc). I also know that the following things will need to be addressed: New 12V coil, all 6v bulbs replaced, heater blower motor replacement, R11 Overdrive solenoid (currently not functional), and radio.

I have started building a +12V stepdown to +6V electronics so that the factory Philco radio can be maintained (Using the 1950 Custom 8 wiring diagram manual). My question is, the factory radio appears to be Positive ground chassis with a fused input. The diagram in the manual (https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/1950_CustomRadioOM.pdf) lists an input voltage of 6V +/-A. Does this allow for the input voltage to be "inverted" from Positive Ground to Negative Ground without damage to the radio? I do not want to destroy anything more in this conversion process.

I understand that this voltage conversion may be seen as blasphemous to some traditionalist Packard Owners. I would like to keep the vehicle as close to original as possible; although, make it a bit more drivable.

Anyone whom may have already performed this type of conversion, please feel free to reach out to me and let me know what else that I may be overlooking. I welcome any advice that the Packard community may have for me.

- Eric Hansford
1949 Super 8 Deluxe in Egyptian Sand / Egyptian hood ornamemt.

Deskdriver,

I have had the same issue with my 23rd Series Super Deluxe 8. The issue that I had was occurring with both Bias 4 ply and Radial White wall tires. The issue that I found was the the trim rings that were on my car were not originals - they were too wide and matched the same diameter of the rim bead. What would occur was the when the tire would flex when hitting a bump, it would flex and hit the trim ring and pop it. Since ordering the correct trim rings from Max Merritt (WTR15-SS), I have had no further issues with the trim rings.

As for the hubcaps, I found that the clips on the rims would not hold the caps tight enough and could not be bent properly on the rim. To alleviate this issue, I drilled out the factory rivets and then bent the clips. Instead of "re-riveting" the clips, I (and against what many traditionalist Packard owners will yell at me over) bolted the clips back on the rim. This allowed for a tighter hold on the hub cap with the clips.

I have also realized that not all hub caps will fit all rims. Out of my four hub caps, only certain ones will fit certain rims. You may want to rotate your hub caps around your rims and see which ones fit the tightest on each rim. This has worked for me.

Good luck.

- Eric

I add to Owen_Dyneto's posting upon the original keys, I have included a photo of the original keys that came with my 1949 Super 8 DeLuxe. I photographed both front and back sides for review.

Attach file:

---

  (104.53 KB)


  (54.93 KB)

I had spare keys made by the local hardware store and use them daily while saving the originals. The replica keys are made by AXXESS and have a number "78" on the back.

I hope that this helps.

Steve,

Thank you for the compliments upon her. I was asked if I would ever repaint her and other color - and I like the "uncommon" Egyptian Sand color. That is what made me take a closer look when I bought her. I have seen Navy Blues, Blacks, Greens, and Burgundys in person; but never another Egyptian Sand.

- Eric