I only wish I had the money and/or cars to buy this property. A friend is representing this fantastic car property in Oregon for sale.

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I finally got the rebuilt water pump and water jacket installed. I like the gasket sold by Olsen Gaskets better then the thin paper one sold by Max Merritt. I ran the car for 1/2 hour in the garage and never got above three quarter on the temp gauge. I took the car for a quick spin yesterday and never got above 1/2 gauge even on the steep 700' climb to my house.

However the weather is cool in Oregon, so I'll have to wait until the warmer weather arrives to see if the problem has been solved.

BTW, I still can't see coolant flowing in the radiator opening.

Owen-Do you use the gasket shellac on the bolt threads?

The washers from McMaster 93783A029 seem like a good solution.

I've used Teflon thread sealant when installing the 44 bolts holding the water jacket on. I've had a few minor leaks. I'm re-installing the water jacket with a new gasket. Any recommendation to help prevent the minor water leaks from the bolts?

Yes, I was very pleased with the cost. Wade, the owner, appears to know his water pumps. Just with the naked eye, you can see the new gap is a very close fit and hopefully if everyone's theory is right, improves the WP's performance. Looking back at the previous pictures of the WP, the impeller gap looks humongous!

Got the WP back from the Flying Dutchman. Total rebuild was reasonable at $245. Now I can't even see the gap between the impeller and WP body. The rebuilder says it's between .010 and .015. Also the WP body was turned to reduce the effect of the pitting from corrosion on water turbulence. It may be a while before I get it install as I got a RV trip coming up. However, looks like nice work with the upgrade John Deere impeller.

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The rebuilder's goal

1. Impeller clearance from .010 to .030.
2. Upgraded 6 blade impeller
3. Turned the pump body so the surface is smooth while maintaining the .010 to ,030 clearance

Hopefully this solves the issue.

Radiator has been recored and rechecked. The engine was completely rebuilt. I removed the left side cover plate last week when I removed the water pump just to make sure. It was clean.

The initial feedback from the rebuilder was the impeller was too far away from the body plus the body of the pump had a lot of pitting which could cause other issues.

He also wasn't too thrilled with the rebuilding job done previously.

Ken

I spoke with Wade, owner of the Flying Dutchman water pump rebuilding service in Selma, OR. He seemed to know his stuff and describe exactly what my water pump should look like. He said the critical dimension were from the impeller blades to the water pump housing. .60 he said was pushing it as it should be .010 to .030. His belief is that you should see coolant circulating especially when you rev up the engine.

His plan is to replace the 4 blade impeller with a 6 bladed impeller from a John Deere tractor water pump. He said he's had good success with this mod. He will also turn the base of the water pump and also the impeller blades so there is an even gap between the impeller blades and the pump housing aiming to get a gap of .010.

10 day turnaround he said.

No gaps for air to sneak by. Water pump is suspect as little water flow is observed with radiator cap up. This is a non pressurized with no thermostat in line. The front grill shutters act as a thermostat.

I was hoping someone with a 32 era car could verify if they see water flow when the radiator cap is off.