Hello and welcome to Packard Motor Car Information! If you're new here, please register for a free account.  
Login
Username:

Password:

Remember me



Lost Password?

Register now!
FAQ's
Main Menu
Recent Forum Topics
Who is Online
121 user(s) are online (54 user(s) are browsing Forums)

Members: 1
Guests: 120

2T300RE, more...
Helping out...
PackardInfo is a free resource for Packard Owners that is completely supported by user donations. If you can help out, that would be great!

Donate via PayPal
Video Content
Visit PackardInfo.com YouTube Playlist

Donate via PayPal

Forum Index


Board index » All Posts (kunzea)




Can someone give me a source/part-number for 1951 head and manifold paint?
#1
Home away from home
Home away from home

kunzea
Can someone give me a source/part-number for 1951 head and manifold paint?

Posted on: 6/11 17:57
 Top 


Re: How do I measure how much can be milled off 1951 288 head?
#2
Home away from home
Home away from home

kunzea
I guess I didn't describe my situation properly. I don't know if the head has been milled before. I don't know if it needs milling, I will have the machine shop measure the warp, if any. Hopefully the shop can tell me how much, if any, needs to be milled. I'd like to know if that much can be milled. I'd think that would be based on measurements of how deep the cylinder cavities (combustion chambers) are. In other words, are the cylinder cavities deep enough to clear the protrusion of the valves above the block.

How much warpage is tolerable for a 1951 288?

I've read that flatheads are more accommodating of warpage than overhead valve heads because the flatheads will flex. Also, copper head gaskets are further accommodating.

Posted on: 6/5 22:34
 Top 


1951 288 Packard Valve Clearance Notes: What is the minimal clearance?
#3
Home away from home
Home away from home

kunzea
Measurements below are at cylinder 2 prior to surfacing.

Highest edge exhaust valve above block: .3475

Head surface plus straight edge to cylinder cavity: .4945

Straight edge: .0750

Used head gasket: .0600

Clearance with straight edge: .4945 - .3475 = .147

Clearance with used head gasket: .132

Minimal clearance: ?

Posted on: 6/4 11:35
 Top 


Re: What metal nuts/washers for head and manifolds?
#4
Home away from home
Home away from home

kunzea
I would use Grade 8 also except I'm thinking stainless steel.

Fromhttps://www.stsindustrial.com/products/grade-8-stainless-steel-heavy-hex-nut-domestic/:

"Grade 8 SS Heavy Hex Nut Domestic

Domestic ASTM A194 Grade 8 heavy hex nuts are manufactured from AISI 304 grade stainless steel, tested to meet ASTM A194 Grade 8, and are melted and manufactured in the USA. Dimensional specifications are governed by ASME B18.2.2. Grade markings for A194 Grade 8 heavy hex nuts consists of the number 8. Grade 8 stainless steel heavy hex nuts are intended for use in high-pressure and/or high-temperature service with ASTM A193 bolting of similar material, such as B8 and B8 Class 2. Heavy hex nuts provide increased bearing surface area over finished nuts."

It sounds like in other words, 304 is equivalent to Grade 8.

Any thoughts?

Posted on: 6/4 11:12
 Top 


How do I measure how much can be milled off 1951 288 head?
#5
Home away from home
Home away from home

kunzea
How do I measure how much can be milled off 1951 288 head? I'd like to do this before paying to have it milled and then using clay. I'd use clay to verify. How much do the valves rise above the block? I'm going to try to measure and will post. Will also try to measure depth of cylinder cavities in head and post. I have 2 dial indicators but need a mount.

Posted on: 6/4 7:00
 Top 


What metal nuts/washers for head and manifolds?
#6
Home away from home
Home away from home

kunzea
1951 288. What metal nuts/washers for head and manifolds? Thinking stainless. What grade? I don't like acorns. Nuts/washers won't be painted.

Posted on: 6/4 6:31
 Top 


Flex Hone for 1951 288
#7
Home away from home
Home away from home

kunzea
I'm planning on honing my 1951 288 with a flex hone since I'm working on the valves. Cylinders measured 3.5". What size and grit? 3.5" 180?

Posted on: 6/3 20:57
 Top 


Re: How do I determine if my 1951 288 head is usable and who has one?
#8
Home away from home
Home away from home

kunzea
Bottom line up front: What I thought were ridges were actually locations where there was little carbon or other build-up.

Please check the following.

I started to describe what I thought I saw, that there was a ridge around the water passages and the cylinder/valve cavities. I realized that if that was the case then the head could probably never be resurfaced. That didn't seem likely. I went down and felt around these "ridges" and realized they weren't ridges at all but were the locations where the head gasket edges had sealed between the head and block and had kept the engine from building-up carbon. The "ridges" were actually low spots in the build-up.

There was little or no "ridge" on 4 on the 5 side. I think this relates to my experience re-torquing the head a few months back. The center nuts around 4 and 5, especially 4, rotated about 3/8 of a turn. Practically all of the center nuts turned a significant amount. At 18 threads per inch this 3/8 of a turn equates to a possible warp of about 56/1000". Also I've been getting traces of sooty water from the tail pipe.

I have talked to 2 machine shops about re-surfacing the head and the manifold assembly (manifolds bolted together).

BTW, any recommendations on painting those components. Also I'm going to get new nuts and washers. Probably not acorns. SST since they won't be painted?

Posted on: 5/31 9:19
 Top 


How do I determine if my 1951 288 head is usable and who has one?
#9
Home away from home
Home away from home

kunzea
Look at the picture. There is almost no ridge between number 4 cylinder space and the surrounding head surface.

Attach file:



jpg  IMG_20240529_143235353_HDR.jpg (3,416.44 KB)
85709_66577abbd1e00.jpg 4080X3072 px

Posted on: 5/29 13:58
 Top 


Re: Seeking Comments on View of 1951 288 Head-off Valves and Piston Tops
#10
Home away from home
Home away from home

kunzea
I went into the head because of several things.

The engine had a tapping sound that was inconsistent. The idle was rougher than it should be. It would curb idle just under 400 but just didn't sound right.

If I started it and operated it like I thought would be normal it had a really loud tap. With moderate acceleration the tap was pretty loud. The vacuum was about 17 with about a +/- just over a pound swing. If I took the compression right after an extended ride one of the cylinders was about 60 lbs. As it cooled off it came up to the others. If I cranked it and left it alone to warm up then drove with minimal acceleration it wouldn't tap too badly. On the other hand, once it started tapping it would persist pretty much for the whole trip.

I decided I had put it off long enough.

Here is a photo that represents all of the exhaust valves. The intake valves were not nearly as bad. Most of the valves were hard to pull out. I took a drill-bit-like wire brush and ran it through all of the valve guides. Most of them emitted carbon dust when running the brush. I have ordered a 11/32" reamer. In the interim I took a 11/32" drill bit and tested the clearance in some of the guides. It passed out the bottom on some but the others were obstructed.

BTW, I used a hand lapping tool on one of these cleaned exhaust valves then installed it with the spring and keepers. I filled the cavity around the valve with 30W oil. After about an hour and a half the oil was still there. The next morning it had drained. I have ordered a drill operated valve lapping tool to try to do a more thorough job.

Attach file:



jpg  IMG_20240528_215527.jpg (57.05 KB)
85709_6656a0a75f9bf.jpg 1080X1440 px

Posted on: 5/28 22:27
 Top 



TopTop
(1) 2 3 4 ... 13 »



Search
Recent Photos
Photo of the Day
Recent Registry
Website Comments or Questions?? Click Here Copyright 2006-2024, PackardInfo.com All Rights Reserved