I took my "Lo" horn apart. The large disk in the image is screwed onto a threaded rod which is riveted to the horn diaphragm. The disk is shown in the non-energized position. When energized the coil located within the cage pulls the disk down until it stops on the fingers of the cage. The points should open during this travel. This de-energizes the coil and the disk returns due to a metal tab attached above the disk, which wants to be straight. The travel of the disk can be adjusted by loosening the nut directly above it. I don't know how this happened but the disk was too close to the cage. This resulted in a pitch much higher than the "High" horn. The individual horn audio sprectral responses are shown in the attached images. These were captured on an Android app entitled "Spectroid" found on the Google Play Store.

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My horns seem to be way too high pitched. I haven't been able to get my "Lo" horn tone to adjust down. They don't sound like a big, old car. Is this how they sound? What can I do?

It has a oil filter canister now but not when rebuilt.

I drive it every day. I've driven it 530 miles since I got it back from the transmission shop on 18 July.

No sales person has been involved in the oil selection discussions. I am inclined to follow the advise from the local "old school" engine mechanics in the shop that specializes in classic and antique cars. That's where I got the 10W30 from.


I just now found out that the machine shop that rebuilt the motor is still in business but at another local location. I'll see them tomorrow.

I've always pushed the pedal to the floor every time when starting. I'd think that when cold the automatic choke would close and require the pull-off when starting. I believe this pull-off occurs at the end of the linkage travel. Do the fully-opened throttle plates impede starting when warm? I believe the throttle stop is adjusted where the plates are fully vertical (90 degrees?) and the pull-off is engaged. If the starter should engage not less than 30 degrees and not more than 45 degrees I've really been doing this wrong. Just push the pedal enough for the starter to engage when warm?

Wiring diagram athttps://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/wirediagrams/48-9%20%2022nd%20Series.pdf. Circuit goes from ignition switch to carburetor to starter solenoid. Trace the voltage through the circuit. On my 1951 there is a metal ball in the carburetor that is held up out of the circuit by manifold vacuum when the engine is running. Make sure the ball falls down whenever the engine isn't running.

Car didn't have oil filter canister when I got it. I used 30W conventional (no additives) at first. Next I used 30W Valvoline VR1. Local classic car shop recommended 10W-30 so I bought Lucas 10W-30 Hot Rod oil. Haven't put it in yet. I think many here would suggest 30W but is that for an original engine? What about an old rebuild engine?

Manifold or ported? Why?

See attached image. I had noticed the recessed area around the pins before but didn't think about it. The rear-most pin is accessible but the other two aren't. The pins are 1/8". The tubular nylon pins 13964 are 1/8" diameter with 1/32" head thickness and 15/64" head diameter. The recessed area diameter is greater and the depth will result in a .01725" stand-off.https://denverautofasteners.com/13964-nylon-tubular-nut-1-8-stud-size/

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How are the "Ultramatic" script pins secured?