yes, still available. Havent had time to put it on ebay.

My dad always used a paper match book striker. Was always handy in his pocket lol....
Join the conversation on "starting issues 2126 still." maybe we can figure those two out together.

I checked continuity from the far side of carb switch to starter solenoid. Bingo, that one was connecting to the solenoid. I reversed them and then checked continuity between both carb switch posts again. O.o ohms when the linkage was advanced. Initially, the overdrive relay had been wired "upside down" but did straighten that out using the picture Howard had posted.
Still no ignition. Other wiring seems to check out ok...I think:(

OOOOKKKKKKK
Battery connected, ignition switch to "on". Volt meter clipped to side of carb switch nearest drivers side and other to ground (at battery post). 6Volts (5.9) without any accelerator linkage pressed. volt. Moved the voltmeter lead to the "in" side of the carb switch furthest from drivers side. Nada. 0.00 volts.
So, can I infer that the switch leads from ignition to carb switch have been reversed all this time. I thought the ignition wires might have been backwards at the dash but this seems to say ignition is providing power to one wire on the carb switch...just the wrong side. Any thoughts? Any harm in reversing them to try.
Cheers

Ok....finally got back to it and have read all of the responses. Thanks for taking the time to dive in.
I rigged two wire leads to each terminal on the carb switch just so I had a decent place to clip my ohm meter securely. initially, it read 154 ohms (not sure it is accurate meter but that is what registered) I then manually pulled the linkage as if the accelerator was pressed to firewall. gradually the ohms spooled down to 0.0 ohms. With meter still connected, I went to accel pedal and pressed to firewall then watched the meter come down to 39-41 ohms fully depressed (the accelerator, not me....yet...) then disconnected the ohmmeter to look at continuity on ignition with key on. When I hooked the ohmmeter back up to carb switch, it read 111 ohms. Jockeyed the linkage a few times but still 111. From the accel pedal, never made full contact the best I can tell. My switch plunger/ball assembly is not angled as the above pic but rests horizontally. I may hook up battery and see if I can get 6 volts across the terminals or across the inner terminal and ground. Will keep you updated.

Thanks Howard. One more piece to decipher in the process. Carb was rebuilt but not sure if the switch was dismantled and reinstalled. But...the short answer is there should be continuity I guess when the linkage is advanced.

Finally getting back to the starting issues with a "everything rebuilt" system. thanks to Howard and others, I have about all of the wiring schematics and interestingly enough, they all seem to correspond. Starting to trace where the break down is in ignition and thought I would start with the starter switch on carburetor. I would think (with battery disconnected), I would get continuity between the two poles of the starter switch. I get nothing when throttle is advanced. I don't see the mechanism externally but I do see that the pin that the throttle controls pivot on goes into the body of the carb switch. Does that then make the contact inside the cylindrical switch housing where the "black box" is mounted?. Thanks to all for all of the leads to circuit tracing diagrams.
Cheers

I was looking for a right front trim piece for Tall Steve's 53 and found this on the storage shelf. Probably a better place on the forum to find someone looking but since I was already here, decided to throw this out there.
This was rechromed in November of 1989 in San Diego and has been wrapped in news paper since then. The date of paper is Nov 3, 1989 in right corner of picture. My dad had done a good bit of chrome work out on the left coast and had most of it tucked away. The label said 1951 Packard Patrician 400. Mounting screws are still in a small envelope. If any one is interested, PM me. otherwise...it goes back on the shelf for another 31 years..lol

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Tall Steve
If you haven't had any luck with trim piece, I may have one that would fit your model.
This is left over stock from Gibbs Machinery in Columbia SC that my dad ended up with when they were getting rid of inventory to make room for VW dealership parts.
I took the picture so that you could see a small dimple in the front portion. Being stainless steel, it should be able to be dollied out and wet sanded (2000 grit) and buffed.
Cheers

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Howard, I used your link and it was very helpful. Then, went back to Main Menu and realized I had not opened the Packard Literature and Manuals link. Went to that and bingo....thanks. Funny how we tend to put off the PIA stuff til the end and then all we have left to do is the PIA stuff. Seems to be the case more often than not. Will press on with window installation and refitting. Luckily, wont have to tackle the front doors windows for a while and maybe retain some sanity (whats left).