I feel yur pain!!. Have spent two years trying to get my 2126 super clipper started after a rebuild. Initially, a poorly wired starter solenoid was found shorted thru the case..Fixedit. But the motor was turning really slowly. I ordered the 3EH battery but in the meantime, I picked up a standard high amperage 6 volt battery. Tried starting with the new battery. Engine seemed really tight almost couldn't turn the fan by hand with the plugs removed. Put some ballistol lubricant in the cylinders and let it sit for a few days. With the plugs removed and fuel line shut off, I wouold turn the engine over for about 15 secs twice a day. After a week, Hooked both batteries up and put the plugs in. It turned over faster and fired up with a few squirts of gas. Disconnected the second battery and it turned over and started again today cold. After rebuild, things might need to work in a bit...be patient...its worth it. it was 55 years since I parked the car and this was the first time it started while installed and after the (^&^*&# ignition wiring was sorted out...sweet:)
Others might have more technical background but this worked for on my '47 7 passenger sedan.

Thanks....agree on all the above, was just hoping someone might have the magic answer or happen to have a few thousand of them layin' around...LOL

Does anyone have a source or recommendation for replacement spring clips on the exterior window stainless steel bead trim. All are shot and the replacements sent did not fit (too loose)
Thanks for any information or source

The Steele seals worked well on my 2126 rear quarter windows. Still have to install on doors but trunk seal went on easily.

yes, still available. Havent had time to put it on ebay.

My dad always used a paper match book striker. Was always handy in his pocket lol....
Join the conversation on "starting issues 2126 still." maybe we can figure those two out together.

I checked continuity from the far side of carb switch to starter solenoid. Bingo, that one was connecting to the solenoid. I reversed them and then checked continuity between both carb switch posts again. O.o ohms when the linkage was advanced. Initially, the overdrive relay had been wired "upside down" but did straighten that out using the picture Howard had posted.
Still no ignition. Other wiring seems to check out ok...I think:(

OOOOKKKKKKK
Battery connected, ignition switch to "on". Volt meter clipped to side of carb switch nearest drivers side and other to ground (at battery post). 6Volts (5.9) without any accelerator linkage pressed. volt. Moved the voltmeter lead to the "in" side of the carb switch furthest from drivers side. Nada. 0.00 volts.
So, can I infer that the switch leads from ignition to carb switch have been reversed all this time. I thought the ignition wires might have been backwards at the dash but this seems to say ignition is providing power to one wire on the carb switch...just the wrong side. Any thoughts? Any harm in reversing them to try.
Cheers

Ok....finally got back to it and have read all of the responses. Thanks for taking the time to dive in.
I rigged two wire leads to each terminal on the carb switch just so I had a decent place to clip my ohm meter securely. initially, it read 154 ohms (not sure it is accurate meter but that is what registered) I then manually pulled the linkage as if the accelerator was pressed to firewall. gradually the ohms spooled down to 0.0 ohms. With meter still connected, I went to accel pedal and pressed to firewall then watched the meter come down to 39-41 ohms fully depressed (the accelerator, not me....yet...) then disconnected the ohmmeter to look at continuity on ignition with key on. When I hooked the ohmmeter back up to carb switch, it read 111 ohms. Jockeyed the linkage a few times but still 111. From the accel pedal, never made full contact the best I can tell. My switch plunger/ball assembly is not angled as the above pic but rests horizontally. I may hook up battery and see if I can get 6 volts across the terminals or across the inner terminal and ground. Will keep you updated.

Thanks Howard. One more piece to decipher in the process. Carb was rebuilt but not sure if the switch was dismantled and reinstalled. But...the short answer is there should be continuity I guess when the linkage is advanced.