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While getting ready to reinstall the newly woodgrained trim around the front window, I noted some left over spray paint on the rubber. The previous owner had rattle canned the dash, window trim, etc, generally making a mess. I noticed that the center divider on the V of the front window was also poorly painted. I removed it and cleaned it up. It appears that there may have been a chrome strip, about 1/4" wide running down the center divider. Anyone know what was the original finish on the divider bar? I was going to wood grain it, to match the window trim, but I thought I would check first.

Second question. The gas gauge showed almost empty, so I decided to drain the old gas and put some fresh gas in. After draining out about 7 gallons, it looks like the gauge is out of wack. My previous experience is that the old cork floats get the shellac dissolved and the cork soaks up gas, and rides low. Either that or if it's a brass float it has a pinhole leak in it. If this isn't the case, is the proper technique to fix this is to bend the arm?

thanks

My 37 120 coupe convertible had the same problem. Removed the gauge and found that the cork floats (there are two corks on the lever) had water (gas) logged.

I ordered two replacement corks from Snyders Antique Auto Parts and no more problems. I had previously made the same repair to my 1918 Cadillac. Both cars are doing fine with the new floats.

Snyders' part number is A-9313-C. They say the floats are made of "modern material that is resistant to ethanol, the last float you'll ever need to buy!" I believe they are correct.

Rod

Thanks - I will work on the gas gauge this afternoon. Can anyone help me out on the divider bar question? I'm going to wood grain it unless told otherwise.

Did you have to remove the tank in order to replace the cork?

I don't know if a 39 is the same as a 38 (38's didn't have wood grain) but the divider on my 38 is the same as the windshield surround.

I was able to remove the gauge assembly without dropping the tank 100%. I had to drop the straps and let the tank drop down on a jack but did not have to remove the filler neck. Tight squeeze but doable. Once out of the tank, you can run a jumper wire from the unit to the chassis and then move the arm up and down to make sure that the dash gauge is responding accordingly. I wouldn't do this directly over the gauge hole in the tank as you might get a spark!

Rod

I undid the gas tank straps, with a jack with a 2x4 on it to spread the load. You can reach in behind the axle and undo the gas line using a tubing wrench. I undid the rubber connector to the fuel filler line and then dropped the tank just enough to get a stubby flat blade screwdriver on the screws, and a nut driver on the electrical connection. You can then lift out the fuel sender. The two corks were completely saturated with gasoline, thanks to our friend ethanol. I removed the old corks and put on a modern float, the same size and shape, fastened with a clip. I put it back in, raised the tank slightly so that I could get the brass tube connector restarted - this was the hardest part of the job. Pushed the tank up with the jack and reinstalled the straps, then tightened up the gas line connection and the rubber connection from the filler pipe. Tested it and all is good.

I think I will woodgrain the divider. Easy enough to change.

for the curious - here is a photo of the repaired fuel gauge sender, with the dead floats in front. It works much better now!

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