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Both horn housings on my 32 503 have broken off from the 90 degree fitting which attached to the bugle part of the horn. Does anyone know a possible source for a replacement housing? My other option is to have a fine threaded nipple fabricated and welded to the housing. It appears to be a nominal 3/4" pipe with 27 tpi straight thread (which I believe to be light fixture thread) and I have not been able to located anything similar. Or has anyone else experienced this and have an alternate solution?

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If it is 3/4-27 that seems to be a standard plumbing thread and there are some small ready made adapters and nipples that might thread or could be modified. Some seem to be used with faucet aerators and quite a few different shapes and sizes look to be available. If not 3/4 or the hole is smaller perhaps you could go with your nipple idea and thread both sides. Make a smaller thin wall nipple to fit in the hole and hold the pieces rather than trying to weld what looks like it may be pot metal.

Victor Machineryvictornet.com/alphabetical.html has special pitch taps and dies in dimensions a bit smaller than 3/4 so you might be able to make a nipple that you could thread into both sides and would not have much affect on the sound. Once a nipple was mechanically holding things together you could worry about cosmetics. As long as the piece is painted some JB Weld might work well to give a more permanent and cosmetic repair. If it is plated then obviously JB Weld would not work.

If you do want to try a solid repair I would go with something like Muggy Weldmuggyweld.com/index2.html low temperature rods. They have several formulations that work at about half the melting point of pot metal. I have used their Super Alloy 1 on aluminum and pot metal but you would need to be sure what you are working with to get the correct material. It goes on with a low temp propane torch and seems to hold well but with old pot metal, if it has deteriorated and turned porous there may not be much of anything that will work.

If you have never used the MuggyWeld before by all means watch the videos and practice on scrap to get the temp correct with the flux just turning brown when you apply the rod. Am sure you know that too much heat and it is all over in an instant with pot metal and a hard to find part like that sure isn't something I would want to experiment with.

I've have successfully used Muggy Weld on the left tail light of my 901 and some other parts. It is critical that you have clean surfaces where they are going to joined. I would strip the paint before starting anything. Then clean the weld areas with a good detergent. Clamp or secure both pieces exactly as though they were joined. Apply flux and then slowly heat both parts avoid getting the torch flame coming in contact with the flux otherwise you may need to clean up the surfaces and start over.

Remember that a Muggy Welded joint is not as strong as a brazed or silver solder joint. Handle it with care and you should be happy with the results.

Thanks for the suggestions. The broken off piece or the fitting cannot be attached solidly to the horn housing prior to installation on the car as the entire horn assembly will not fit between the fender and the grill wit the fitting attached. Therefore I need to find or fabricate a threaded nipple and have it solidly attached to the horn housing, mount it on the car then thread on the fitting and then thread on the horn bugle.