Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Subject: removing rear brake drums
52 300 sedan

Here's where I'm at and what I've tried. I have the exact puller that is supposed to be used for this job. Same as picture from this website.

I have been using Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster. I have the Nut and washer backed off enough so it can come off partially. I have made sure the E brake is NOT on. I have made sure the rear shoes have been backed off.

I have been now for the past 3 hours, hitting it to tighen it, then hitting the center shaft just about as hard as I can with a 4# hammer.

It sure the heck doesn't seem to be moving to me. Any help or suggestions appreciated. Drastic measures are starting to go through my mind!

NOTE: I can NOT drive it anywhere as it DOES NOT have any brakes!!

Chuck in AZ

Keep beating on it, pretty soon it'll go "POP!!"

What you might try is if you have a small canister of mapp gas. Any hardware store will have it. And a screw on torch head. Be careful not to over do, but try heating the hub for a bit between poundings. The best I have found on prewar larger drums, is loostening the nut a bit, put cotter pin back in and drive until popped. But you said you can't do that.

Quote:

Chuck,

Below is a picture of the puller I used, don't know if it's the same as yours but same principle. The big nut pushing on the centre of the axle should be continuously tightened and I mean tightened, really lean on it! A combination of tightenening and hammering WILL loosen it off.

Attach file:

---

  (31.48 KB)

I am using a puller identical to this one in the picture.

Attach file:

---

  (44.48 KB)

I think it just going to take perseverance and patience. I had one on a 54 that was as stubborn as yours. Just left puller on and every few hours hit it a good whack with the small sledge. It finally popped with a loud bang.. The heat mentioned earlier might help--just don't over do.

Don't take any drastic measures! Patience, patience, patience. Put good tension on the puller, and go cut the grass, or paint the house, or take off for a weekend. I once had one that popped off with a bang about a day later. And when you're done, DON'T grease or oil the axle taper when reassembling, it's the friction of the taper fit that drives the wheels, not the key!!

Frequently the shoes are stuck to the drum. I'm sure you have backed the tension off. But, if not, try to let the pressure off with the adjusting wheel. In order for the puller to work we need as little drag as possible.

Again, be patient and keep banging on it.

Get HEAVY pressure on the big center bolt of the the tool what ever it takes. Use a 3 foot pipe as a cheater bar. The tool should take at least 300 ft-lbs of torque.

Try the heat.

Mark the hub where the Key is. Use a heavy punch or bar of steel at least 1/2 OR MORE in diameter. Place one end of the punch on the hub snout. Strike the punch with a 2 pound hammer as hard as u can possibly hit it. Do it first at 90 degrees to the key and then directly opposite the key.

When u get the drum off. Inspect the key way in the drum and the top of the key itself to see if it broached any metal. Occasionaly a key that is too high will cause this problem.

Don't be afraid to beat the shit out of the tool or the drum snout nor over tourqueing the tool centre bolt. If u can break either one with your arm then they were no good to begin with.

At his point u'll have to get really ruff with it. So wear some safety glasses just in case. Shouldn't need them but a good idea at this point.

Also if the hammer wings of the tool are mushroomed (they shouldn't be, never seem any mushroomed) then grind the mushroomed edges off of the tool. If u hit a mushroomed edge of a punch chisel or any other impact object they come off with tremendous force and in directions as predictable as the squirt of a grapefruit.