Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Has anyone repaired this switch. One of the four is intermittent in my car and I don't have any idea how to gain access to the guts.
Thanx, Les

The switch is held in the chrome bezel by the black clips at each end. One clip is missing on your switch. To release the switch use a round punch or item small enough to fit in the holes at each end of the chrome. You will see a small bit of the metal clip thru the hole with the tip pushing outward on one side of the hole. GENTLY push that piece of metal inward to get tip inside the bezel and release the clip so you can pull clip out of the assy. The clips are spring steel and may be very brittle so use care and as little force as possible so nothing will try to break off. If the protruding piece of the clip breaks off the clip is worthless and other than finding another switch I don't know where you can find any more clips.

With the clips released, the switch will pull straight out of the chrome. At each end of the switch itself you will see a hole with a piece of round plastic or nylon inside. Use gentle pressure downward to relieve the spring tensions of the switch buttons as you use the punch to push that round plastic piece out of the housing. Once it is out all the switch buttons will come out. They may be under slight spring tension so be sure to watch out for any flying pieces.

Electrically, there is a round brass or copper tube on each button that forms the moving part of the actual switch. There is a round stud at the bottom center for the BAT terminal and metal plates on either side held in position by a curved leaf spring. NOTE that the plates are positioned a bit differently. One side is almost straight up and down and the other is angled slightly with the bottom end farther away from the brass tube. When you push the button one way to have the window go up the inside of the hollow bottom end of round brassl tube makes contact with the BAT terminal at the bottom center and outside of tube makes contact with both of the metal contact pieces on the side. This energizes both the pump and the solenoid valve for a particular window and it raises. When you push the button the other way, because one of the metal plates is at an angle no contact with the outside of tube is made so pump cannot start and only the other metal plate for the solenoid valve is energized to let fluid escape. The large spring on the regulator pulls the window down.

Here are some photos of the switch. Note the exploded view of electrical contacts is of an earlier switch but that switch is electrically the same as yours.

Attach file:

---

  141446php59m4ZI_sm.jpg (32.79 KB)


  IMG_2685.jpeg (202.97 KB)


  IMG_2686.jpeg (206.37 KB)


  Pre 51 window switch.jpg (368.88 KB)

Hi Howard,

That was an amazingly detailed description! Thanx for the super quick response. Definitely a good winter project.

Cheers,

Les

It takes more time to describe the process than to actually do it but one thing I was not very clear on is what to use as the punch. As I recall, the clips also are used to hold the switch assy in the door. With that in mind the outside of the clip that works to hold it in the door is over and wants to prevent access to the hole in the chrome.

To reach the hole which will be somewhat hidden you will need to use a right angle punch affair. Been years but I think I used a sharp point double end scribing awl with one end straight and the other at 90 degrees. You can also make something out of a length of stiff heavy wire such as a coat hanger. It only needs to have enough length on the angle end to reach under the solid side of the clip and get into the hole to push the protrusion back toward the switch. Again, do not use anything that puts undue stress on the clip.

I don't have any good sharp photos of the clip by itself but here is a photo of an earlier switch someone posted. A bit blurry but it still shows the clip and the part you need to push back reasonably well.

Attach file:

---

  1137_5461baa596afd.jpg (155.94 KB)


  scribe.jpg (15.05 KB)

Thanx again....Les