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After getting the master cylinder rebuilt and having seat belts installed, I've had quite a bit more mobility with the '54 Packard Deluxe.

So far, I've noticed some drivability quirks. It hesitates a bit from just off-idle, and then kicks in with a good neck-jerking acceleration. I have a new accelerator pump installed, but maybe have to go after the whole carb rebuild. I often get unintended "one-wheel peals" in both first and second gear. I'd like it to be smoother.

Going into second gear usually gives a little clash, unless I make a real smooth low-speed upshift. I think maybe the synchros are a bit worn.

Overdrive is very subtle on the road. You hardly notice it shifting up when you let off the gas. It shifts back down very smoothly on hills--you have to listen close for The RPM change. But when you kick it down on acceleration, it makes a solid downshift. Of course it does have a 4.10: 1 final drive ratio, and I don't know how much numerically lower the overdrive makes it.

In hard cornering, I can really notice the old "L78-15" 4-play bias tires . Lots of rubbing sounds and a bit of sliding, which is controllable, but no squealing. Lots of tread on the tires.

The car really likes to go fast. In 3rd gear around town it's much happier at 40 than 30. On the highway in overdrive, it likes 70 (observed) better than 60 (probably more like 65 rather than 55) and it's raring to go faster than that.

The brakes engage with little pedal effort, but at times there is a nasty screech that seems to come from the left front just as its coming to a stop. I'm thinking maybe a problem with an out-of-round drum? There's some pulsing and then it grabs. Most of the time, though, the stops are smooth and straight, so I don't know where to start to look for a solution.

All in all, it's still a little rough around the edges, but definitely a hoot to drive. I've been "sorting it out" for about 120 miles or so since I last filled it with gas. It's about time to fill it again and check the mileage. That'll be interesting.

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Check the distributor vacuum advance unit for a leaking diaphragm. The effect of such leak might not be so significant WRT the advance curve, but the vacuum supply for that unit is ported at the carb. That is, cracking the throttle open may introduce enough of an air leak to affect the air-fuel ratio, resulting in flat spot.

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Screeching could indicate a problem with linings. If not simply glazed, they could be worn to the point that a rivet or shoe is starting to come in contact with the drum. Grabbing could be the result of a fluid soaked lining, a sticking wheel cylinder, or even a problem with a brake hose.

My '54 Deluxe will exhibit the sluggish acceleration from a dead stop until it's warmed up. To the point that if I give it too much gas it will stall. So I have to baby it a little bit until she is fully warmed up, then it's fine after that.

It probably something in the carb/choke adjustment on my end.

RE: Noisy brakes -
I had a 54 Chrysler that would do that - it ended up being a fatigued spring on the OUTSIDE circumference of the drum. Just loose enough to magnify any harmonic vibrations the drum would make on braking. I replaced everything in that wheel. Finally replaced the drum, no more problems.

Not sure if Packard used the same set-up? (I haven't gotten that far in my Patrician project)

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Thanks for the feedback. The brake linings are new (complete shoes in front, re-lined in back) as are wheel cylinders. It was making the same noise before the brake job, so I'm thinking it's either adjustment, or, more likely, drum(s) needing to be turned or replaced. It'll stop straight, true, and quiet under easy braking, but harder braking tends to cause the squealing and sometimes "pull" usually to left.

WRT the hesitation just off-throttle, it may be timing or carb, but it seemed to improve somewhat just by leaning out the idle. Strange (to me) but true. I thought a richer (faster) idle would help, but it seems just the opposite. I won't complain much about a little hesitation right now, because I'm running the same plugs, coil, wires, ignition timing and breaker point settings as when I got the car. It's been pretty darn good to drive this way, so I'm not messing with it 'til Spring.

I didn't get the car back from seat belt install and master cylinder rebuild until late September, so I've just been trying to drive and enjoy it as much as possible as is. I want to get the oil changed and grease it--maybe a peak at the brakes--and then it'll sit for winter. Yuck.

The brakes are still squealing after enough driving to rule out rust on the drums. There is also some pulsation under light braking.

I'm throwing the shop manual at it, so the mechanic will have a full run-down on brake adjustment. (As I've said in the past, I don't work on anything that makes it stop or steer.)

Cleaning up and painting the outside of the drums black when they're off is an idea I've been kicking around. My reasoning is that black will shed heat best. Am I dreaming, or could this be helpful?

I'm also having the power steering reservoir looked at. Any tips on whether it should it be cleaned or the fluid changed? The shop manual just says to top it off with Type "A" transmission fluid.

I believe "Purolator" is stamped on the side of the reservoir, although the manual doesn't say anything about a filter.

Ever since they did away with asbestos brake linings in the 80s brakes have been plagued with squeals. On disc brake cars there is a silicone like goop you put on the back of the pads to dampen it out. What you can do on a drum brake car I don't know but even in the fifties some brake drums had springs wrapped around them to stop squeal.

In other words there may be nothing wrong with your brakes, just lousy modern linings.

The pulsation indicates a warped drum or drums.

There is nothing wrong with painting the drums. A thin coat of barbecue paint will enhance cooling. I sandblast and paint mine with rust proof paint. I'm sure it disperses heat better than a thick coat of rust.

I don't see how a layer of black paint on brake drums will help dissipate heat. In my opinion, it will only add another layer which the heat, generated by the brakes, has to pass through. Painting will enhance the appearance and keep the surface from oxidizing. I would use a thin coat of lacquer, like is used on radiators, after thoroughly cleaning the surface of the drums. Enamel on backing plates is okay. Just my thoughts.

(o{}o)

JW, your statement makes complete sense to me. When I painted the drums on my 34 (they are very visible thru the wire spoke wheels) I used regular chassis black enamel w/o concern as these senior mechanical brakes are so effective and resistant to fade, perhaps because of the drum cooling that the "open" wire spoke wheels allow. When I painted the drums on the 56 Carib (which has regular wheels and hence the drums aren't visible) I used the low-solid radiator black because those brakes are quite prone to fade on repeated heavy application.

Here's the story on the "anti-squeal" springs as used on the 10th and 11th (and perhaps later) cars with mechanical brakes. The dust shields pictured are a bit of a rarity these days, probably discarded by mechanics (like the later fuel pump heat shields) with the comment "you don't need these". I am missing two and would love to find a pair - 14" drums.

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I'm not planning to brush on a thick coat of paint, just spraying a coat of black paint ike Rustoleum. A straight lacquer paint may be a better option. Thanks for the tip.

As far as linings are concerned, I don't know what kind of composite was used in these particular linings (although I'm sure they don't contain asbestos).

Back in the day, new linings were routinely scuffed a little on the ends to form a slight taper, rather than leaving them squared off. This could help to reduce high pitched vibrations caused by contact between the sharp edge square shoe end against the drum. I might suggest this if the shoes are removed again.

I don't see anything in the shop manual about anti-squeal springs, and there were no trouble-shooting tips regarding brake squeal either.

I'm betting one or more drums will end up being the culprit(s).

Thanks for the feedback. Will keep you posted if I find out anything yet this fall.

Anything about power steering fluid or fluid changing would be appreciated, too.