Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Ive been having trouble with my 1949 deluxe 288 running hot. Many of you offered solutions to the problem. They all helped, but it still wasnt running cool enough to suit me. So I wanted to share a really effective fix in case anyone else is having this problem. I routed the output hose on top of the cylinder head directly to the heater core. Hooked the long hose from the water pump to the heater core output.Cut a rectangular hole in the heater core cover, which turned the heater core into an auxillary radiator. Worked great. Car stays right in middle of temp gage.Hope this is helpful.

I used that trick of turning the heater on in a Mazda pickup when the engine thermostat stuck in a barely open position. Am curious about your heater function when it becomes that time again and also is there hot air and fumes getting into the passenger compt.

An old trick to help cooling was to turn on the heater to full heat and speed and roll down a window. Could be uncomfortably warm in the passenger compartment, but helped the cooling.

The last thing we need in sw Florida is a heater lol. No fumes blower is disconnected

When you say "hot" what do you mean? Does your coolant boil? Do you loose coolant? If not, you car is not running hot. You cannot judge the car's coolant temp. by the temp. gauge.

I don't agree entirely with Dwight.

I do agree that you can't tell the coolant temperature from the temperature gauge (unless you've calibrated it). But I can't agree with his statement that if your coolant isn't boiling or running out the overflow, you don't have an overheating situation.

If your cooling system temperature is much (10-15 degrees or so) higher than your thermostat rating in a non-stressful driving situation, your cooling system is not functioning to it's original capacity, i.e. you're overheating.

Just to add a wrench into things, I was surprised when I read the following from the 1954 Clipper Owner's Manual:

"At normal operating temperature the pointer should center approximately between the "C" (cold) and "H" (hot) position, except on long hard drives in summer weather, when it may register nearer to the "Hot" side. This condition need not cause alarm as the pressure type system will normally prevent boiling or fluid losses at temperatures up to 248 degrees F. However, a sudden rise to the "H" mark should be investigated at once."

248? In the past, mine started moving past the center at about 195-200 on the rear of the engine. Since my radiator was serviced it has stayed centered easier, with engine temperature never exceeding 180 (measured with a temp gun).

-Kevin

Found this interesting thought I share;

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For anyone that might have installed a higher rated pressure cap and still has an old original style bellows thermostat there is another bulletin to keep in mind. 53-T11 mentions the bellows vs capsule type thermostats and how increased pressure affects the bellows type operation. The bulletin copy in the archive is poor quality so if anyone wants it here is a better one.

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Bulletin 53-T11.pdf Size: 573.95 KB; Hits: 106