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So I've stripped down the exhaust manifold and still have several questions. I want to make the car as quiet as possible, and I'm concerned about the leaks around the shaft of the heat riser.

First question: I cannot get the pin out that holds the damper (5.0908) inside the manifold, so I cannot remove the shaft to insert new sleeves (5.0913 and 5.0914). Is the pin made to be removed?

Second question regards the tube-exhaust manifold automatic choke heat - part number 5.09035 - it does not want to come out either. I believe there is a break inside for 2 reasons:
1. there is exhaust coming out of the bottom when running
2. when I put compressed air in one side and plug up the other air streams inside the manifold.

If I can't get it out I can't replace it..

Third question - there seems to be a gap in the factory weld (5th picture) - there were exhaust burns around it - should I weld it closed?

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I don't have a ready answer. As you can see from plate 92 in parts manual, both were made to come out. After 60 years though, I doubt either will without serious work. Believe Owen_D mentioned how careful you need to be with the cast iron too--a wrong hit and it can shatter.

A possibility on the tube is to find some tubing of proper size and then a drill bit and drill the old out. Don't know about the valve. Maybe others will have better suggestions.

Don't know what the original material was but here are a couple of links that might be useful now or maybe future.

various metal & tubingonlinemetals.com/

special size drill bits and lots of other stuffvictornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/index.html

I like the idea of drilling out the old tube, that'll work.

I've changed a number of those choke stove tubes on various makes and models over the years, no doubt yours doesn't differ significantly. It's a very basic, simple operation. Probably the ends of the holes in the manifold are cast or machined in a very slight countersink. The tube, just plain simple steel, nothing special, is cut to length and the ends just swedged over to seal them. So to remove the old one, I'd use either a countersink bit or a drill bit and VERY CAREFULLY just drill away the swedge from one or both ends, and just push the tube out. When you install the new one, you can put a flare on one end before installing to save the need of swedging both ends. And again, be careful, old cast iron can be brittle as heck. Support the work by the steel tube and not the manifold as you swedge the other end.

You mentioned a "factory weld" on the exhaust manifold - I think not, better take a closer look - it might be a repair. If you want to weld cast iron, I'd recommend seeing a pro!

I wouldn't be overly concerned about minute exhaust leaks around the heat riser shaft, there has to be a certain amount of clearance for the shaft to rotate freely both before and after everything expands from the heat. Unless it's just totally worn out, you'll never hear the noise over the running engine. But of course if you want to install new sleeves and a shaft, it's does come apart for servicing.

Dave, Howard-

Thanks! The tube extracted after drilling just like you said. I used a 21/64 drill bit. The tube was cracked half way through.

Brake line is 5/16, but that's too thin for a high heat situation like this, right?

As for the gaps around the shaft, I'll just live with it, fixing these other exhaust leaks will probably quiet the old car down quiet a bit.

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I'd say get the thickest wall soft steel tubing you can find that still permits the automatic choke vacuum line to slide in. I've used steel fuel line and never had one fail, though most collector cars don't see the kind of mileage or use that they did originally.

BTW, do you have two different threads going here on the same project?

Yes, 2 threads. I'm assuming people who had specific interest in exhaust manifolds would look up a thread called exhaust manifolds.

That being said, I wonder if each of the pre-war, post-war, V8, studebaker, ZIS, Modification forums could have a static forum for the major components of a Packard, could be organized the same as Packard service manual does...

I'm thinking of the area of the forums where Kevin posts the poll questions, the first few on top that don't move down (Important Topics).

The tube thru the exhaust manifold should be Stainless Steel.
What is the diameter of the tube that goes thru the exh manifold???? maybe use a tube from some other application.

THE TUBE needs to be STAINLESS STEEL to keep it from burning out. Most other manufacturers use a cheap grade of SS and the tube is usually interrupted about centre of the tube to create a kind of venturi and to allow more heat exposure to the air and to keep the tube from bending or collapsing when driven into place.

What i have described above is exactly what SBC used for many years with great success. Look at a choke tube for Chev V8 1957 thru at least 1965. If i remeber rite the chevy tube is 5/16' diameter.

Thread the old tube with a tap and use a slide hammer to remove the old tube. Drilling out is ok but becareful tha the drill does not grab or wollow off to the side.

It would be much safer to pull it out with a slide hammer if u can get one in there.

The Packard tubes I've removed are plain steel, constant diameter, no venturi. Stainless would no doubt be better but it's damn hard to form the swedge at the ends w/o risk.

To loosen the cross shaft of the exh. heat riser:

Soak with favorite snake oil.
Useing a brass or lead hammer or drift ALTERNATELY tap the ends of the heat riser shaft from side-to-side. That is tap parrellel to the shaft as if u were driving like a nail.
Tap one side then tap the other and continue to alternate the taps of hammer from side to side.

Do not tap with great force or something will break. Start out using gentle taps and build up.