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Was just watching an old episode of Gearz on the Rev'n channel. One of the tips mentioned was when using stainless fasteners you should always use an antiseize product but if none was handy, dipping the threads in Maalox works just as well and even better on exhaust fittings because the Maalox will not burn off. Has anyone heard or tried this?

Aluminum hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide are the main ingredients. So maybe that is why. Idk. Never used it myself.

It depends whether you or your bolt has indigestion or not.
Practically, why not just go down the store and get some antiseize? If maalox doesn't work, you're "screwed"...

Why not go to the store and buy a clothespin?

All joking aside, but not sure about clothespins being a joke.
Fred must have some experience in that regard to share?
I think I covered "galling" before on this forum. The stainlesses are more susceptible to gall because they have a thin oxide layer that gets "wiped" off when the threads engage, so to speak. That leaves clean metal to metal in close proximity, so it's subject to atomic bonding. Any film or material in between there will disrupt that close contact. A light lubricant also helps dissipate the heat and friction and prevents sticking. As I said in wet vs dry torquing in the past.
Maalox is aqueous suspension so I don't think it's the best choice. A light smear of lithium grease, lock-tite, or antiseize - since its why they make the stuff - a lubricant based suspension of usually fine dissimilar metals.
Exhaust bolts/studs are a separate subject, and deal with high temperature stability. High temperature accelerates what happens at normal temperatures. Exhaust runs just below red heat temperatures, so there's some metallurgy going on there too. So you need rust resistant bolts/studs, but factories used carbon steel mostly and we all know how they last and shear off. I think the best design for exhaust is through bolting, that way there's no studs to shear and you can sacrifice/cut off the bolts easily and replace each time. When you "ruin" an exhaust manifold that's one way to fix, i.e. through drill and bolt.

Me??? Joke?? I've read lots of posts on here about using a clothespin on the fuel line to cure vapor lock so it HAS to be true. If it works for that it must work for every other automotive ill including car sickness (told you to forget the Maalox)

Never heard (but that doesn't mean it's not true) that SS fasteners need anti-seize lube. Come to think of it, the reason you use SS is so it won't seize??

We used to use SS bolts in v8 manifolds after we broke the orig steel bolts and had to have them drilled out. After the S bolts were in for 5-10 years (without anti-seize) they cam out without difficulty.

I just went to the internet and researched technical papers and chat rooms. the chat rooms/blogs are full of uninformed observations such as SS will cause harmonic problems ( I think it's ionic!!!???!!!) Much info repeated from other useless sources.

One well written paper referred to the problem of galling and the use of moly lubricants to prevent it, but the other way to prevent it was much more informative. Reduce the installation RPM's. That means in commercial/industrial use you should slow down the RPMs of the power wrench/drill.

In conclusion I think that the problem of galling/"welding" of SS fasteners in automobile repair is a non-issue.

Another one laid to rest?

"I've read lots of posts on here about using a clothespin on the fuel line to cure vapor lock so it HAS to be true"

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Logical discussion doesn't extend from discussions of galling, humorous or otherwise, to using clothespins for vapor lock?

HH, that was a "carpe diem" moment, and they don't come around that often.
Fred FYI: Stainless threads won't generally gall in cast iron - dissimilar metals. This wasn't much of a subject in automotive until studded aluminum blocks came into prominence.
Galling is a serious subject, not just for stainless but a whole list of alloys and has more to due with the metallurgy than the speed of engagement. For more information, there are numerous technical reference materials on this subject. TV, Wikipedia, and the internet are not reference sources.

Just had to resurrect this thread because of this.