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Here, is parts for needle bearing, inner rings, needle bearing, the needle bearing, no play on shaft, its a good fit. had to use two inner rings, so the thin one is where the seal will go. the shaft size now is 2-1/4 inch, 1/8 larger than org.. so i am using same front seal just 2-1/4 bore.

will put up other pictures later.

ps, that one piece is what i use to press on inner rings. have pictures of that to.

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Very nicely done but am curious what the plans are to seal the ends of the bearings. How are you going to maintain the converter fluid path the bushing used to provide.

Hi.
Howard, I have oil holes in rings, needle has oil hole, the oil will get there,, we will see if I have converter pressure, R,D,,project. I hope I do, matbe, I will look for a sealed bearing,,with oil hole,,,,,,,but that shaft, fits,snug,,rotates smooth.....

Rik...

Getting fluid there I don't think will be the problem but keeping it there would be my concern. A fair amount of pressure can be involved.

What does this, do?,,,its drilled into the seal area,, which the seal should cover it, but if not, a leak. the oil holes in the shaft, we were thinking to keep pressure up, just use two oil holes. But can add the other two,,which i might do,but i sorta want to see what happens with two. cause here is my thought, once the converter is full, you can't add more oil or pressure. but somewhere there are ultramatics with needle bearings,( Caged ) of coarse they could of went to scrap with the car//

Thanks,

Howard//

Alum. Bronze came today,,,,for bushings..

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On the passage, I'd have to look tomorrow to be sure but if it goes up and exits in the space between seal and bushing, it's the oil drain hole which dumps any leakage past the bushing back into the pan.

The converter has continuous fluid circulation. It gets pretty warm so after fluid exits the converter via space between reactor and input shafts it goes to the top tube fitting on side of trans then to oil cooler and then back thru bottom fitting to pan.

Thanks,

Howard,,,

alum bronze cam bearing,, three to go,, me, mc kacken plumber,, 56 block sleeved.

the other cam, bearing is new, i got my od, from it,,had not been, crushed.

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need to get those non packard picts off,

today took off rear sway bar. pitb, why packard put the nuts on the inside,, when it goes back in nuts will be on outside,

and going with stainless bolts.

after taking sway bar apart. my plan is to mod. it, so i can use nuts, add 1/4 inch. on rear side. i was think thinking 1/4 each side, but that throws it out, of line.

i can turn the head of the bolt down in the lathe 3/16ths looks like it will clear.

with the nuts i can use cotter pins to lock the nuts, drill threw or castle nut.or even double nut the nuts. thats the easy way.

i will have pictures for all of it.

the driver side bar still had bushings, the pass side top was gone.

The bolt,, 60 years and bright and shining ..

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brake

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