Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I would like to install an aftermarket water temp gauge in my 48 Custom 8 (356). Any suggestions for brands or models? Do any have the correct sending unit?

G'day James,
Like to you aboard Packardinfo and thankyou for including your '48 in the Owner Registry. I was wondering why you'd want to put in an aftermarket temp gauge but after seeing your comments in "Modification Detail: Back in the 70's car was chopped 4". Not something I would have done, but it does enhance the line of the car. Everyone stops to admire this car." now have a better understanding of why you might want to do that. My '38 sedan has an aftermarket gauge just below the dash on the left of the steering column, remembering this is a RHD car. Reason for mine is that the original gauge in the dash had it's capillary tube cut off and had been left for "show" by the previous owner. And speaking of the chopped top, could we see a few pic's? It sounds interesting.

Any aftermarket electric temp gauge you buy should have it's own unique sender with it. The sender and the gauge both have to use the same OHM range for it to be accurate. If you mix senders and gauges, then chances are you will not have a correct reading. Some senders screw into the upper radiator hose, some in the block like the Packard sender.

. The 356 engine temperature gauge sender fits into the side of the cylinder head on the back drivers side. Occasionally you will find stock gauges on Ebay for Packards. I bought an entire gauge set including a working temp gauge for my '47 not long ago for about $20. I am quite certain that you can locate a fitting to adapted a sender which would fit if you buy an aftermarket gauge. I like VDO gauges as used in Mercedes and Volvo cars.

What is wrong with the Temp gauge in the car? Why not get a new one and keep the car original?

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions! My reason for wanting to go the aftermarket gauge route is that the previous owner had cooling system problems with the car and was running it on pure water (which seemed to solve the problem). I can't run on water in North Carolina and have begun to rebuild the cooling system. Have had radiator and heater core cleaned and flow tested and will replace all other parts (hoses, thermostat etc.) Previous owner had just replaced water pump. I also don't feel obligated to keep the car original as it already has a major modification, namely a 4" chop to the roofline. I would have prefered an original car, but it's still a Packard. Will try to upload a picture of the car. Upload failed, will try to reduce file size and try again later.

Picture can now be seen in the Owner Registry as well as I hope right here.

Attach file:

---

  (23.00 KB)

Have you checked the water distribution tube to make sure it's not clogged, or missing? I had back-flushed my block previously, and it did not clean out the tube. See the last few posts on my project blog for info on this.

The last resort would be to pop out the core plugs and remove any accumulated scale and sludge. You may want to buy one of those cheap laser temp reader guns and check the block in a few places while it's hot to make sure the block is cooling evenly.

Quote:
James,
for the pic and including it in the Owner Registry. By the looks of it a good job as it wouldn't have been easy to do.

But back to the temp gauge. My '38 has an aftermarket gauge because the hi-comp head on it didn't have the temp sender fitting so the previous owner had the sending unit mounted in the upper radiator hose. I had to replace the gauge because it gave up the ghost but I found an instrument guy who supplied a new gauge complete with sending unit and new fittings to suit the collar in the radiator hose all for AU$75, about US$50. Done over 1,500 miles, although it runs hot like all 120's, the gauge works well.

My '41 has the original gauge, and sending unit at the rear of the head. But, I broke off the sending unit removing it from the car. The same instrument guy was able to supply and install a new sending unit on the capillary tube, lost about 6" of tube but still plenty left. He also re-filled the unit with ether, checked and callibrated it and supplied new fittings to mount in the head all for AU$140, about US$95. Only done about 10 miles so far but all appears to be working well.

Note: both gauges and sending units are purely "mechanical" and are NOT electric.

And with Kev, those suggestions are well worth following.

I see what you mean.That is a real shame.I think I have only seen three Custom 8 club sedans in the last 20 years.I understand that there wasn't even one at the Packard Centennial in Warren.Big Kev is right about the water distribution tube.If you can it would be well worth a look.