Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

so, I been searching through the manuals trying to find how to remove the rad on these beasts, and cant seem to find anything. I have the inspection cover in front between the chrome grill and the top of the rad removed, and if I look at the back of the rad from the engine side, there looks to be two bolts holding it in. I simply can not see how to remove them or if there is more to removing the unit than that.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated as always.

On your model the radiator is held in by 3 bolts (I think) on each side. Under the fender there are some small holes cut into the inner fender that give rather awkward access to the bolt heads. You can see the two bolts at the top when that splasher pan you mentioned is off. It is not a fun job.

Hi

Yes the radiator is held in by 3 bolts on each side and is a bit awkward to remove. When I removed mine it was very dity so it will be welll worth flushing it. Packards do get warm sometime. Also look at the water distribution tube in the block when you get to that. It seems this is very important for efficient cooling.

By the way, my car is number 2392-5-38239. Also a standard 8 but right hand drive import to South Africa!

Cheers.

Barrie

I took the hood off, and the upper air shroud, and got to work removing those 6 bolts. Then I put the engine hoist there, and put a nylon strap around the upper hose connection and lifted it slowly out, letting the crane hold it while i wrestled with getting it clear. It's a heavy thing, and it's nice to have help around.

I removed the radiator on my 23rd series(with professional help)to do the ring and valve job. It was a bear. A week later the water pump blew a seal and I had to do it again! The second time I made a few changes to make the job a bit easier. I trimmed a bit of sheet metal to get some wrench access to 2 bolts. I left out the middle bolts on each side (they were already left out when I started the first time). I used the portable hoist to lift it out myself.

I love my Packard but the radiator installation goes on the list of all time bad designs. I think they installed it at the factory BEFORE they put on the front sheet metal.

Hi Fred: I'm a bit surprised by your comments, I've removed a couple of radiators for 48-50 Eights and didn't think it was much of a job - certainly easier than the Custom 8 where the radiator weighs alot more. That one is a 2-man job to lift!

BTW, not necessary to remove the radiator to replace the water pump, though it's often necessary to jack the engine up a bit if the front motor mount rubbers have deteriorated.

I'm going in tonight to try and get this rad out. But first, someone told me where the build sheet for these cars is hiding, so I'm going to go and play some hide and seek to try and find the paper.

Owen,
The real problem with the radiator removal was wrench access to the bolts. The sheet metal shrouds had been bent locally by some previous mechanic, further blocking access. My neater trimming helped fix this. The middle bolts on each side were missing and I can see why. There seems to be no access at all without body disassembly.

yes the motor mounts were sagging on this 60 year old car, and that created more access problems with the lower water pump bolts (they were totally impossible to get a wrench on). The lower water pump bolts are now socket head (Allen bolts) for easy wrench access and the motor mount rubbers are new.

The next time the radiator comes out it should be much easier. But compared to other old cars I own the Packard is still difficult. The weight and height of the radiator are very hard to lift out for one old man with arthritis.

I must say however that my 1935 Diamond T and my 1934 Nash are worse than the Packard because they have a shroud and grill assembly that is mounted to the radiator with many bolts all around the edges. That forces you to take out the whole assembly with the radiator in one heavy fragile package.

But first, someone told me where the build sheet for these cars is hiding,

They were put in either of two locations, over the glove box more frequently, and occasionally at the gas tank srapped around the vent tube. It is surprising how many have survived in the latter location.

My '50 had both.