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I had my '51 grit blasted professionally using either Aluninium Oxide or carborundum, excepting the large panels (trunk lid, roof, bonnet/hood). Door skins were done very carefully and slowly, and to the minimum extent. What was not grit blasted by them I stripped by hand with an angle grinder and stripper disks, which took quite a lot of time. (I think I should have opted for chemical stripping of the entire car).

I asked the company lots of questions to see if they knew the ropes, and they were experts. Very pleased with results, and all rust was removed (- and that was a big benefit). As mentioned, if panels are blasted too long and hard they will heat up and warp as well as stretch significantly when carborundum or Aluminium Oxide etc is used. Soda and glass beads are much less detrimental to the metal but I enquired, and the time it would take to strip with soda was double that of grit, and that meant big dollars. Personally I opted for the grit but in hindsight soda may have been wiser choice when I consider how many hours I spent manually stripping the remaining parts of my car.

You need to check that the blaster knows his stuff!

Alternative is chemical stripping, which I have heard is an excellent means. However it can be expensive.

A friend of mine has a shop in Wichita, Ks and all they do is blasting. From industrial to automotive, but predominantly aviation. They have gone mostly to a plastic bead type material that they can mix and blend to achieve differing grits, much like sandpaper. That way they can change the aggressiveness to match the job.