Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

The system does not build an operating pressure per se because each metering valve is open. What the pump does is displace oil into an open system. The amount of movement of the piston is regulated by the vacuum restrictor. Under straight motor vacuum the force acting against the spring may be as high as 32 pounds, but the regulator retards this action.

As well, the pump is not a closed system either and need exert enough force to over come the check ball. Granted there is a momentary increase in line pressure which quickly drops to zero as oil flows through the metering valves.

Further, the true potential line pressure is controlled by a second smaller spring. Once the pump cycles oil drawn in by the pump pin compresses this little spring. This controls the line pressure surge which is at best 3-4 psi. The big spring has little to do with line pressure.

If the concern here is priming your system, I made a little homemade hand pump out of a caulk gun. I used to hang it on the hood rods and give it a little squeeze every now and then. Viola, old systems that hadn't worked in years would start bleeding oil throughout the system. Just like the manual says they will.

Tim,

Thanks for the input and insight. I may get a chance to give it a go with the oil this weekend. Based on input from Dave, Ken and you, I'll start at 5 psig and see what happens.

I Plan on using a 50 wt oil.

I want to thank everyone for their input. The lead on Don Axlerod for the headlight bolts was great. He had two of them, which I bought. I also needed one of the bulb sockets, which he did not have. I tried several other sources but was unsuccessful.

Going through various catalogs for classic cars I saw that Macs had a model for a Ford that I thought I could adapt and so for eight bucks I ordered one. I removed the insulator/wires and the fitting at the rear from the socket (see 'Ford Bulb Socket' photo) from the one in the upper right\. I then 1) cut a notch from the rear, 2) sanded it to remove the plating, and 3) formed a ring out of 12 gauge copper wire, which was placed in the correct location on the socket. I then silver soldered the ring in place.

Holes were drilled through the two long pieces that protrude from the rear of the socket. A spring with the correct I.D. was bought at a local hardware store. I then installed it on the reflector and it seems to fit as good as the correct one so I installed the headlamps on the car.

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