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Thanks Guys,
I appreciate the guidance.

The seal used in the rebuild was a from a Graph-Tite kit. The kits from Graph-Tite should come with a pin and instructions as Tolandis describes. I've concluded that the pin in the cap either was not installed or failed. I guess I could have looked for a pin hole in the cap before we put it back together.

I guess the first thing is to make sure it is the seal that is leaking and not the oil pan. Looking for some help on this.

Second thing is if we need to replace the seal again, I am wondering if there is a proven rubber seal replacement available.

I really appreciate the help!
Mark

If it is a 1940 super, no. I wish there was a modern replacement.
When you replace the oil pan with gasket make sure you have a bead of "the right stuff", or something similar. Don't over tighten, as you might push out the gasket. One time I suspected the rear gasket had pushed out a bit. I pulled off all the silicone I could, then took a plastic curved upholstery remover tool. Put klumps of silicone on the tool and smeared it on top of the protruding gasket against the back of the block.
Also I have been told not to use the wooden sticks, instead use "The Right Stuff" to fill the trough, and use the silicone where the cap comes together with the block.

I think I can close this out.

Today, up on jacks, and a test run. No oil from clutch cover weep hole, but two leaks up front that travelled rearward along the oil pan lip, and dripped from the clutch cover bolts. One side from the oil pressure sender and one from the other side from the oil pump. Good news actually, since I was expecting another seal failure.

So for now, the slant six rear seal seems to work with much easier install when engine in place. Oil pump another topic.

Thanks Gents,
Mark