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That is a 1937 banjo.
I do not have the patience to detail rechroming/restoring that wheel typing on my phone, but suffice to say, you will have to have considerable patience.

That bad huh??

We're kind of mixing up steering wheels. The '38 Databook optional steering wheel image Howard posted is the same as '37. The flat spoke banjo is from '39 like Chris' and '40 like mine.

Mine is stainless or nickel or whatever (someone know?), but not chromed. Just polishing brings it back. The '37-'38 may not need chrome, either. The spokes on your '38 wheel look really good. Maybe a buffing wheel and polishing compound could bring it back as well. But if it has to be chromed, as the flackmaster suggests, could be an awful lot of work.

Mine plastic is lighter than I wanted. It's ivory, but should be caramel, light tan.

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Thanks for the info.

The hub is the problem, it has some pits in it. Are the spokes stainless?

Not sure if it's legit, but this '37 banjo has a painted hub.

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If the spokes can be cleaned up with some chrome polish and work, IMO painting the hub might be a very cost effective way of making the wheel look presentable if that is the only part that needs chroming. You have already said your car is full of surprises so why not add one more. Someone pointed out the 37 and 38 Deluxe wheels were similar if not the same. It appears the standard wheel in the Twelve had a painted hub and if you paint yours to match the steering column it should blend in nicely - even if it might be "wrong".

No idea on other banjo wheels, but the later K wheel has a potmetal hub which is painted to match the column. The 47 Custom has a chromed shroud but the painted section is not out of place. Other models had painted shrouds and even with the chrome in between, the painted hub blends with the knobs, bracket and column below the shroud.

On the dark rim, it appears in photos of a 37 Deluxe wheel it may have a gloss finish. If your color is still decent perhaps a coat of clear coat or if a bit rough, some epoxy work covered with a quality automotive paint would get it to a proper color and sheen. Most of the rubber based wheels were done with a painted finish and when KevinAZ refinished his 55 wheel he put several photos in a blog covering the process. The work would be the same for earlier wheels.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

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Wow.. that's a lot of discussion about steering wheels! I think as Howard suggests mine may be a leftover Deluxe from an earlier year. It doesn't match the 1941 accessory illustration for the deluxe wheel or any of the earlier standard wheels. It's not exactly the same as any pictures I've seen, but the rim is cream plastic and more or less translucent. The main differences are the full-circle horn ring and the centre boss (which matches the rim). Anyway,I'm not losing sleep over it. I like it, so I won't be changing it anytime soon.

Cheers Brian

Brian, Joe and Howard.

Thanks for the info. The murkiness is clearing somewhat.

Ok, parts book lists a Antiqua Tan and/or a Gypsy Brown wheel for 1603,4,5,7 and 8.

My guess is Gypsy brown.

Both my hub and column are chromed so there is not paint to match I guess. The rim may respond to light sanding and a clear of some sort. It is pretty stained at the moment.

Working on the horn button pic.

Thanks all

Bill

Here is the threatened horn button photo.

There is pitting on some of the banjo "strings" so I am guessing it isn't stainless

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Doubt it. The accessory brochure photo above says the 37 (and maybe 38) wheel is made of chrome plated steel wires. No idea how resilient the rim material might be but seriously doubt you could plate the wheel and still have the rim perfectly intact after it had gone thru the preliminary stripping, smoothing and then the plating chemicals. Possibly it would come thru well enough to be touched up with epoxy and paint though.

That probably being a hard rubber wheel, there are several sites that have DIY restoration instructions where you can make a silicone mold while the rim is in good condition and then recast the rim in epoxy or plastic materials after it was plated. That might be an option that you could do for less than the arm and two leg prices wheel restoration places are charging these days. If you are not into detail work then the hassle and learning experience (translation: material cost when you redo mistakes) could be steep and the restoration prices start looking good.alumilite.com/PDFs/Printables/How%20to%2 ... Mold-Antique-Car-Steering-Wheel.pdf

Possibly using something like naval jelly and steel wool would remove the worst of the rust and at least get shiny pits that could be covered with clear to make it look a bit better until you bite the bullet and have it done. There is another process that might get shiny chromed areas but it is a stopgap and not meant for large areas. No idea how durable it might be along with existing and getting the steel smooth enough to not stand out and clean enough in the confined area for it to work might be the kicker.caswellplating.com/plug-n-plate-copy-chrome-kit.html# I have used the kit on some small brass bezels I turned on the lathe and the chrome seems to hold up well. When the instructions say the piece must be absolutely clean and not to touch the surface after cleaning, boy do they mean just that.