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I pulled the front window regulars off the shelf last night. It has been a while since I have touched any of this 60-year-old electrical components. Please remind me again of the proper way to test these things.

Both wires were originally connected to the ground...correct? So, if I am converting to positive ground, I find a suitable ground and then I can use the positive on either wire depending on the direction I want it to move. Does that sound right?

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Motor case and regulator is the ground because it bolts to body. Switch gets power thru CB and ign sw controlled relay mounted on firewall in front of driver. The window switch connects power to only one wire going to the motor at a time and those wires go to two separate but reverse wound field coils in the motor which cause the different rotation. The motor is not polarity sensitive because of the way the fixed internal connection always keeps the magnetic orientation between the armature and fields the same no matter the polarity. Yellow wire connected to power makes it go one direction and black wire to power goes the other.

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IIRC one wire makes the window go up, the other makes it go down, so if you switch your grounds, I would assume that the up/down wires would swap. Or maybe not.

Either way just test by grounding the piece, and attaching to one wire at a time. I would use a power supply, or at least a fused connection.

I have been looking at this old thread from 2014. Craig Hendrickson wrote it. None of the images are appearing for me.

I can see the images on posts older than that but not Craigs.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... c_id=14321&order=ASC&status=&mode=0

That link goes to one of the old posts where the photos and sometimes the entire threads were scrambled with the server and software upgrade. On his 55 Craig got tired of replacing motors so got rid of the stock regulator and motor setup entirely. Basically the photos showed what he did to make an aftermarket or street rod vertical style tape drive regulator mechanism fit and mount into the door and attach to the window. Don't remember which unit he used though. He also provided a bit on the electrical circuit he devised to make the motor work with the stock switch.

To mount the regulator he made some brackets to attach the regulator mounting tabs to the bottom of the door and IIRC, made a mod to the metal frame at the bottom of the glass to mount to the vertical style regulator drive section. The motors on those regulators, like most modern motors, use permanent magnets for the field so only the two wires feeding the armature exit. Those wires need to reverse polarity for the motor to change direction. Since the stock Packard switch cannot do the reversal function relays are needed and, IMO, because his circuit used multi pin relays it was a bit more complicated than needed but it worked.

Here are two photos I saved from his electrical info but it is a bit hard to figure out. Didn't save any of the mechanical photos because that would change with whatever brand aftermarket regulator assy was used.

Am also showing what I believe to be a much simpler relay circuit to do the reversal which uses ordinary easily found 30 amp cube type relays. I believe the circuit will work to reverse any of the typical 2 wire permanent magnet reversible motors. One advantage to most PM motors is having the motor leads connect together when motor turns off, is with the armature effectively being shorted it wants to act like a brake so they tend to come to a smooth fairly quick stop rather than want to coast.

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Craig changed the whole setup.

Jag window regulator. After market I think.

He did change the entire setup but not too sure about the Jag bit. Last I remember was he bought a two widow aftermarket kit from a street rod place. I don't know which kit but he had to search for one with a travel that would work with the tall Packard window.

Only mention of any Jag window stuff I can remember was a long ago post from someone saying a Jag motor would bolt right in place of the original motor. Unfortunately the poster did not know or could not remember which one was used. Don't think anyone else has ever come up with a number or year we could try so AFAIK, the Jag possibility is still unproven. As you have found in working so hard to make an adapter for the Dorman or Ford motors, the proper pitch 6 tooth pinion is the hard thing to match with replacement motors.

Keep getting it mixed

Yeah I think the Aussies used the jag.

Back around page 74, I had just received the firewall pad. It came from Quietride so of course, it was the wrong pad. I ordered the non-AC pad and received the AC pad.
I asked what should be mounted to the firewall before the pad is installed and was told the brake pedal needs to be installed first.
So, here I am trying to mount the firewall pad and there is no hole for the brake pedal.
I think Howard has a detailed drawing of the firewalls. I could sure use it, please.

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That is a 56 pad and they may be under the assumption one size fits all. As you found, aside from AC holes, there are other differences. Instead of the single bracket, the pedal mount changed in 56 to dual thin brackets on either side of the vent opening which extend thru the slots you see. The 56 pedal is supported by a long bar thru the brackets with the arm hanging down over the vent grille and moved to the left of the column.