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Looking at this picture, which I took when I got the windows back from the glass shop, the glass doesn't appear to be sticking out further than the guide loop at the bottom.

I think it has to do with the window channel I chose to use on the front edge. Perhaps its base is thicker, and/or it is not fully seating flush in the division bar channel.

What size or part number window channel did others use for this on a 115/120 Convertible?

Good morning Big Kev,
Mine is fully assembled but I do remember getting the glass back and having a gut drop because I was worried there was not enough glass protruding from the front edge to properly seat into the channel.
Upon assembly this proved not to be the case. I am sorry I did not take any pictures of the window assembly before installation but I took some shots this morning.
The channel completely hides the glass edge now. The channel whisker groove is .350" deep. I recall less than a 1/4" of glass protruding ahead of the stainless trim piece. I remember it seemed too little at the time.
As you can see in the image below, the stainless on mine also touches the whisker channel.
At least you don't have to get the glass stretched!!
I just remembered I still have a 6' length of the channel I got in the Kanter kit, (I think they ship enough for a 4dr or something). I have attached its picture too for reference. It measures 0.550" across and .435" deep, with the aforementioned .350" deep channel in the 0.435" depth. You are most welcome to this if you need it.
The glass shop I used did not use the tape, but rather used urethane sealant to set the glass, I know, not original but highly effective.
Bob J.

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  DSC03893.JPG (2,375.84 KB)


  DSC03889.JPG (3,115.65 KB)


  DSC03894.JPG (1,298.09 KB)

Thanks, Bob, that confirms my suspicion. My channel is wrong and that's probably most of the issue. I'll source a new piece that should work better.

Is your channel rubber covered on the back side and felt on the inside and edges?

It's hard to tell exactly from the photos.

Restoration Specialties has this:

8L Rigid Piling Lined Rubber Covered.







Which looks dimensionally correct. I want to make sure the base isn't too thick, which would push the glass to the rear.

It is covered on the sides with a cotton drill material, no covering on the back, and the felt liner.
The dimensions are close to what you have shown,
-0.550" wide
-0.435 deep overall
-with the core .350" deep.
Like I said, for the cost of shipping I could send you my leftover length. It would make sense to cut it into 2 three foot sections to make shipping easier I think.
Bob J.

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  Whisker Channel-Side.JPG (921.16 KB)


  Whisker Channel-back.JPG (992.97 KB)


  Whisker Channel-Inner.JPG (928.02 KB)

PM Sent!

Managed to get the little metal weatherstrip channel installed on the bottom of the fold up B-Pillars. Also used some sponge rubber for weatherstrip. It's a smaller piece that just seals a gap in that area. No specific rubber seal is called out so it some something rectangular that you glue into the channel.

Also installed the proper fender welting. This is one is a vinyl like material over pvc/rubber core. The mounting tab is much wider on this one so installed far tighter.

... by the way, since the question of the correct diameter and material of the Fender Welting will arise for me in the near future... does anyone happen to know what the welting should be for the mid-20th vehicles?? …. as far as I know, the inner material at this time was made maybe of twisted paper cord and the cover was possibly made of leather??

Karl

Quote:

Hey Kev,

Where did you source your fender welting? Looks like a good fit.