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I can measure it and let you know!

When it comes to the earlier cars, I may have part of a grille mesh in steel in storage. I do not know if it originally came on my dads Caribbean convertible (4 before 1040), but that car currently has a gold mesh

I was able to take some time off around Christmas and get some additional work done to the car. First I was able to install new body mounts. Some where in okay shape, others where badly degraded. I got all new ones from Steele Rubber and used grade 8 hardware to hold everything in place.

While I had the body lifted off the frame (by use of hydraulic jacks) I replaced the fuel and brake lines. I got the brake lines from classictube.com and they fit really well, but I had to bend my own fuel lines. Bending wasnt bad, I did that by hand since the benders I had kept kinking the tubes. I used stainless tubing throughout.

I did not get new wheel cylinders so most of the brake line ends are just sitting there. The front brake hoses and 4 wheel cylinders are on order. Ill post part numbers once I verify fitment.

I started the process of getting the dash board installed by installing firewall insulation. I ended up going with dynamatt and 1/2" dynaliner to help with sound and heat.

I installed the wiper motor and wiper mounts but had a hard time getting the cables connected since the wiper assemblies I used were different (these had better chrome than the ones that came off the car). After searching here and the service manual I disconnected the wiper arms from the mounts in order to get the cables connected to the motor and the tensioners set. Ill wait until the car is running to make sure they are set right before I install the arms again.

I ran into an issue with the restored evaporator. The exhaust port on the evaporator was angled in such a way that the port I needed to connect the expansion valve too was going to contact the blower port. So I removed the evap box to get that fitting rotated hopefully in time to get the dash board in the next time Im in town.

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Since I got wheel cylinders to finish up the braking system I was thinking I might as well do front wheel bearings. I found a post on the AACA website by Randy Berger that said the following:

55-56 Senior front wheel bearings

55-56 Senior bearing inner 348640 - Timken 14130

55-56 Senior bearing outer 379474 - [color:"red"] Timken 12580 race-12520

55-56 Senior bearing seal..367675 - Victor 49237.

is that information true? when I look up Timken 14130 it only includes the bearing and no race, is there also a different race needed for that one?

I can't help with the part numbers, but do your bearings need to be replaced? If so the fronts are easy to do. Mine were fine so I just cleaned them and packed new grease. If yours look good now, maybe just clean and pack them and reinstall. If you needed to do them later it would not be difficult at all.

-Kevin

The number for the race that goes with the 14130 cone is Timken 14276

Love that Randy's posts are still helping folks in the Packard community!

I finally finished the grille. It turned out nice. The chrome isnt perfect but good for a driver. I painted the silver and polished the gold. I also used this product called sharkhide for the gold to hopefully keep it from needing to be polished for quite some time.

I also started polishing the trim for the car as well. its turning out well

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This weekend was a big one! was able to get the engine and trans bolted together and into the car! ran into a few hiccups along the way but we were able to get it in A okay.

When it comes to the generator and starter. Is there anything that typically goes wrong with them? I heard generators really only need brushes and your good to go. Is there a source for them? Any part suppliers for the starters? anything to replace on them?

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Congrats! I'll bet that's a nice feeling to have the powerplant back in the car.

The engine turned out great. I'm slightly jealous of how nice it looks....and the clean/painted frame.

-Kevin

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thank you!! I cant take credit for the motor, that was all Ross!

I ran into a little issue over the weekend. I was working on painting the lower bellhousing/clutch dust shield I had and just for fun I wanted to see if the starter I have out here would line up. It doesnt... The starter bottoms out in the bell housing before the flanges are mated up properly. At first I thought it could have been that the autolite and delco starters have a different depth from the starter flange back (this is a Delco starter) but pictures show that the automatic cars also have this lower bellhousing/ dust shield. So what gives? Am I missing something? Is there a spacer that is to go between the starter and this bell housing?

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