Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Thanks HH56...now that I know for sure it is a connector, I'll play with it next time I'm out with the car. Pretty big and elaborate to just be a connector!

Probably because of the fact it was 6v (twice the amps) is the reason the connector are so bulky. Plus the plastics then were not as good as they are now. I believe those douglas connectors were made of bakelite.

I got the connector disconnected. I grabbed the wires on both sides and the ones on the left pulled out. Thanks for the help.

10-25-10

Put some paint on the other side of the parts I painted yesterday.

Finished removing the wire harness from the car. Had to cut 3 wires. One that went to the right of the instruments (probably to the glove box light), one that went to the left and up the pillar (was grouped with the ones shown in the picture with the black douglas connector, and one that was grouped with the high beam switch that ran under the car.

Removed the wires going to the starter switch on the carb. Removed the wires connected to the voltage regulator.

Loosened the two screws on the firewall holding the "clamp" together and removed the grommet. The harness makes a three way split when it exits the firewall. I folded it up and pulled the wires inside the car. I went this way because I kept most of the switches inside the car attached to the harness and it would have been harder to get them through the hole.

The harness looks so complicated inside the car...yet so simple out of it....

Attach file:

---

  (188.95 KB)


  (188.48 KB)

10-28-10

It has been windy and cold keeping me from working on the car. My "winter" project was going to be to make my own wiring harness. Since it has been cold outside and I still have the "bug" to work on the car, I brought the harness inside and started to unwrap it.

I am quickly realizing that to make my own harness is going to be a lot of work. It is not what I was expecting. I originally removed the harness because so many people say how bad their wires are. The wires don't look bad at all, at least the ones that were covered by the tape. The ones that were exposed in the engine compartment are toast. The ones under the dash are faded, but I only see one that is cracked from being sharply bent. The switches look pretty clean too.

Here is my question...what should I do with the harness? I could buy a new 6v universal harness for $250 (probably the best option, but I don't want to spend that much), keep plugging away and replace all of the wires making my own harness (seems like a pain), or just replace the wires at the exposed ends and retape the harness? I'm kind of leaning in that direction. I'm hoping to get advice from those that have done that and are sorry they did, or what others have done. I was also toying with the idea of cutting out the good part of the wires that will be covered up with tape and replacing them with modern wire. I would then use the wire taken from the middle and put them on the ends, giving me a factory look once the harness is taped up again. No one will know what is under the tape. It would be more work, and I am not sure it is worth it, given how little of the harness is really visible and the old wire deteriorating quicker in the elements. Of course, the wire ends would be easy to replace in the future from the harness. What are your thoughts?

Attach file:

---

  (94.16 KB)


  (69.89 KB)


  (85.42 KB)


  (80.02 KB)

All your options have merit. Several have used the universal harness with success and there is one company that does make a 6v version with heavier ga wirehttp://stores.ez2wire.com/-strse-37761/AMC-Jeep-Chevy-Chevrolet/Detail.bok . On the cut and replace with modern the one thing to remember is that even though they look good, the insulation is still 60 years old. As you mention, they may soon deteriorate if exposed. In addition, you have also doubled the chance of a future bad connection somewhere at a splice.

I have built harnesses out of modern wire and it is a PITA but probably the cheapest. Aside from taking some time, very do-able. I think the easiest way is to have a sheet of plywood, lay the harness out approximately the way it is in the car, then use bent over nails to hold things in position. That way you can remove and replace the wires one at a time.

Check out the Rhode Island Wiring sitehttp://www.riwire.com/ on the more about us page for some ideas on that method. They also sell correct wire and terminals by the foot as does YnZ Yesterdays Parts.http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/catalog/ if you really want to do it properly.

Replace the harness, no matter what. Even if you leave it 6v, replace the harness!

Thanks for the input guys, both here and on my other post in the general forum. Looks like I will replace all the wires and not try to utilize the old ones. Since I am so cheap, I'll try to make my own using HH56's suggestion about the board with bent nails. I may reuse some of the connectors that are not readily available at the hardware store.

10-30-10

Didn't have a chance to post so this is really from yesterday.

It was about as warm as it is going to be so I did a rush job cleaning up the support arm and various rods attached to the steering. Got them primed and painted. Also cleaned up the steering knuckle in the media blaster and primed and painted that. Now all of the suspension parts should be ready to go back on the car. I started to media blast the brake backing plate, but it needs some more work so I was not able to paint it.

While paint was drying, I reattached the oil filler tube and dip stick. Looks pretty good! Nice to have parts going back on the car.

I'm really hoping for another warm spell so I can get the starter and generator touched up and the brake parts painted. We will see.

Went to the hardware store and picked up some 16 gauge wire for rebuilding the harness. I already had enough 14 gauge. They didn't sell by the foot so I will have to go somewhere else to get the 10 and 12 gauge I still need. I'm following the wire guide in the service manual that is right after the wire diagrams. It tells you the color of the wire, gauge and where it connects. Should come in very handy during assembly of the harness.

Attach file:

---

  (151.50 KB)


  (158.21 KB)

Anyone know the difference between stranded THHN (I think that was the letter combination) and primary wire? I bought primary wire for my harness because it said it was for automotive use. The THHN wire said it was also oil and fuel resistant. Just wondering the difference. The THHN was slightly cheaper than the primary wire.