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Getting preliminary tear-down information from the rebuilder:

So far, it will need an exhaust cam and many buckets(tappets) are wiped.

The intake cam was not getting oiled in the middle section, so something is clogged.

He said the timing chain was set tighter than he had ever seen and may explain some of the noise.

Chain guides are entirely worn.

Pretty much everything on the back of the motor was leaking oil.

Several valves and guides need replacing.

The starter gear is worn, and so is the ring gear.

More to come as he gets more dissembled…

Nothing will get ordered until after the complete tear-down is done. Want to make sure both the head and the block are usable before we do anything.

While I wait for the other shoe to drop on the motor, back to wood working.

I need to make a new package tray board. The one in there came with the car, but is not original, and I don't think the shape is correct on the pieces that extend forward behind the B pillars.

This is what it currently looks like:




They are some holes body flange there that don't correlate with anything. So I'm wondering if those "legs" extended futher forward than the one i currently have.




If anyone with a 115C or 120C convertible couple can snap a couple pics of that area for me, I would appreciate it. I just need to know how far forward that package tray board extends forward, and if there are any additional fasteners towards the front.

Thanks!

Is that fitting where the top irons pivot?

I think I can help. On mine the package tray base was quite delaminated in the plywood plies, but the perimeter was intact for a pattern (Note, it has a beveled edge to match the angle of the vertical panel that goes behind the seat):



This allowed me to cut and install a new plywood base using the panel holes from the original:




At the upholstery stage I created the liner from door card stock like that that came originally with the car, it fills the gap in behind the top B pillar arms. The vertical panel that wraps along the back surface goes in first, then the horizontal flat panel goes in. It is all friction fit for the top trim panels with no adhesive or fasteners required:




Hope this helps Kev,
Bob J.

Quote:

Yes on the body flange that runs underneath it.

Bob, did you plywood shelf have extensions that ran forward on each side up to the B-pillars?

This what mine looks like, I think it is original but not 100% sure

No, they are just like yours, only the door card upholstered cover covers that gap on mine. I have added this shot, it is a blow up from across the shelf area from the driver's side looking at the B Pillar on the passenger's side. I took some license too and used the threaded hole in the base of the hinge bracket to trim that out too. Do not know if that's correct but the threaded hole was there so I used it.



Bob J.

Well, pretty sure Russell found the source of the suspected rod knock:




This is on cylinder six (front one on a Jag motor). He pulled the rod caps on one and six, one was perfect, six is knackered.

So while I wait for more shoes to drop… this evening I continued the wood replacement.

The package tray needs a new board, whoever replaced it last must have had a shaky hand when cutting as it was no where close to straight. Also, since the bullhead was missing it had sagged pretty badly.

So after replacing the wood that goes front back under the body flange, I made a pretty beefy piece to bridge the two sides which will also form the front edge support and also the upper nailer for the bulkhead. Since my bulk head wont be a solid piece as I have a split seat instead of a bench, I made that piece extra thick. Once this was added it really made the b-pillars very stout.

Spoke to the rebuider... yeah engine pretty much needs everything.

He said a portion of the oil pickup tube was broken off and could been sucking air at times.

All the ring grooves are severely worn. So needs new pistons, rings, etc.

All the rods would need to be machined larger or replaced.

Crank is iffy at best.

Need both cams, valve springs... and the list kept going. And he hasnt got fully stripped yet it to check for cracks. So I told him to stop at this point until I get back to him. No sense adding to the bill if I decide to go a different direction.

So at this point I need to figure what the best option is going to be as this has went from a basic rebuild to pretty much a nearly complete overhaul, which is going to be out of budget.