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It appears my charging issues are fixed. I had the generator serviced. Nothing really found wrong except some questionable solder joints. The cutout was replaced with a Vreg which also mounts on the generator. First one that was tried did not do the job as it could supply enough voltage at reasonable current. Turns out none of these gen mounted Vreg specify current/voltage specs. Only the cowl mounted Vregs specify these.

Now the ammeter initially shows charging after you start the car. Then it slowly goes down to about zero. This makes sense as it replaces the battery potential that was used in starting the car and then after the battery is charged, battery current should drop off as you supply the running car with current from the generator. This also solves the possible problem of overcharging the battery with a cutout.

It's my understanding that in order to convert your generator to full voltage and current regulation, that you have to convert from 3-brush to 2-brush configuration. Comment? And what make/model# regulator did you use?

I understood it was not converted from a 3 brush config but I will ask. I also will ask about what regulator was used.

I finally sent my generator and starter to ACE-Wichita. Glenn is a pleasure to work with daily updates. The starter from his testing is not up to his standards so he will work on it.

The generator also needed work. The armature was shot and is needing a rebuild. Also he says the voltage reg that the shop used is a piece of crap. So he plans on rebuilding a cutout for me. This is after being "serviced" by a local shop

of course proof is in the pudding but I'm anticipating being able to start the car after a warm shutoff.

Thanks for the ACE-Wichita recommendation.

Gee, rebuilding one of those armatures must be pretty involved. What about the field coils?

I've seen pictures of them being rebuilt and they do that for traction motors at the Altoona Loco shop in Pennsylvania. I guess a new commutator can be pressed on as well.

If you still have starting trouble I would check the voltage drop between the battery and the starter post when the starter is turning. Those floor switches can wear out and cause problems. A new set of cables may be in order as well. You can have those made by one of the harness makers. The results are better than the DIY stuff.

I got my starter and generator back from Glenn. The starter turns over like a jack rabbit. Did not realize how slow my old starter was. Glenn recommended a lead acid battery vs Optimas.

Any comments on negative effects using 6v Optimas instead of lead acid battery.

Your battery box will hold the large NAPA commercial 6-volt battery (#7210 as I recall, or a Delco 4HD6V) which have considerably more cranking amps than an Optima; that's why I've stuck with the lead/acid batteries in my 34, plus they give quite long life, 8 years or more as a rule. Plus, since our cars don't have full generator controls, it may eliminate some of the fickleness to charging that Optimas have shown. Just my preference.

Thanks. That may be an option. Today I went and removed the 2nd Optima battery I had in parallel which was installed to try to fix my starting problem. It actually never did fix my starting problem. Car turned over again like a jack rabbit on one battery. Unfortunately because of health reasons, Glenn is not taking any more new work in.

Amazing how good those 6Vs systems are when they are in good shape.